login   |    register
Painting
Discuss all areas of historical miniature painting and painting preparation.
Hosted by Engin Kayral
Having trouble with blue uniform
Battleship_Al
Visit this Community
Washington, United States
Member Since: October 25, 2009
entire network: 133 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1 Posts
Posted: Friday, October 21, 2011 - 01:41 PM UTC
I am having a very bad time with the color of a blue US Calvery (1870) uniform. My base color is W&N Prussion Blue and using Raw Umber for shadows and Titanium White for highlights. The color is just all wrong. It's almost too blue. Would some grey tone it down? Maybe some buff? Should I base my color on a different blue?

Thanks for any help.
mistermagoo
Visit this Community
England - South West, United Kingdom
Member Since: February 24, 2008
entire network: 32 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Friday, October 21, 2011 - 09:36 PM UTC
I'm afraid you have started with too light a colour . I use WN Oxford Blue as a base colour , and then Indigo and Burnt Sienna for shading going to pure black for deepest shadows . Using white to highlight will only increase the bright blue , try Naples Yellow .
Take a look at some images on Google you will see these jackets were really dark and as the faded they went a dirty blue .
If you don't want to strip down the work you have started try some black/brown washes and pure black washes in the deepest area
mistermagoo
mohammedcohen
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: September 22, 2010
entire network: 102 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 06:02 AM UTC
According to the Late Bob Knee, in his book (now out of print) "Color Theory & Application", his formula was Winsor or Rembrandt Blue mixed with Mars black. For highlights he suggests Cerulean Blue or Mediterranean Blue (Daniel Smith) mixed with a tad of Cadmium lemon to a blue green then adding a tad of Titanium White to a 'mid value'. Another highlight is Pure Cerulean Blue lightened to a medium value. You might want to try to find a copy of this book (softcover) on E-bay or perhaps Amazon...it's invaluable...I knew Bob personally - he taught me much of what I know of painting. BTW - I'm a Garand Collector also.

CB in FL
Battleship_Al
Visit this Community
Washington, United States
Member Since: October 25, 2009
entire network: 133 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1 Posts
Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 06:06 AM UTC
Gordon,

Thank you for your help. As this is only my second figure and my first rtry with blue I have alot to learn. I will pick up some Oxford Blue and Indigo today and give it another try. I hopen I can rescue what I have as the face looks pretty decent for the second try and I don't want to have to redo it.

The Prussion Blue just didn't seem right from the begining. I couldn't put my finger on why though. I never thought it would be too light.

So much to learn.

Thanks again, Albert
Battleship_Al
Visit this Community
Washington, United States
Member Since: October 25, 2009
entire network: 133 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1 Posts
Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 06:11 AM UTC
CB,

I will look for the book. I am going to give Gordans idea a try first and see how it goes. I am not looking for perfect at this time but want to learn.

I only have one Garand, a late Sprinfield and a 1943 IBM Carbine. They are both from CMP and are in super nice condition. I hope to add an earlier Garand soon.
mistermagoo
Visit this Community
England - South West, United Kingdom
Member Since: February 24, 2008
entire network: 32 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 06:37 AM UTC
Albert I forgot to mention another good colour to use for highlighting is Flesh , I bet you got some of that in your collection , try to avoid pure white , mixit into a pale grey if the two colours I mention don't give you the highlights you need
Mistermagoo
mohammedcohen
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: September 22, 2010
entire network: 102 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 07:08 AM UTC
I forgot to mention in my response....Blues (as well as yellows, whites and others I can't rccall at the moment ,are extremely difficult to paint onto plain primed surfaces) you MUST undercoat to ensure good coverage with oils...they also, along with reds and others, take a long time to dry, so you might consider adding a bit of Dorland's Wax Medium to the final color mix or using a crock pot set on LOW heat - and uncovered - to accelerate the drying time of your work...but NEVER use the wax AND heat together - use one or the other ONLY

CB in FL
Battleship_Al
Visit this Community
Washington, United States
Member Since: October 25, 2009
entire network: 133 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1 Posts
Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 07:27 AM UTC
CB,

I have noticed the difference in drying time. It has helped me to work out problems in my painting before it all sets up. After I did the face on this project I used a small heavy weight box with a lamp over it to dry the paint and they dried to a decent flat finish. It seemed to work well.

Gordon,

I don't have any flesh color but can get some. I am willing to experiment.

Thanks, Al
Battleship_Al
Visit this Community
Washington, United States
Member Since: October 25, 2009
entire network: 133 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1 Posts
Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 09:38 AM UTC
Well, my local art supply store didn't have Oxford Blue so I got a tube of French Ultramarine. I will give it a shot later.