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Armor/AFV
For all military ground-force modelling subjects.
My first HEMTT - the Italeri LHS
165thspc
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 09:20 PM UTC
Other examples of the distressed styrene "wood" technique:


Heavy duty scratch built 7 1/2 ton loadbox for Mack NO.



Under body flooring detail added to resin US 20 ton flatbed trailer.


Scratch built four ton US trailer.



Scratch and vac-formed Bussing-Nag truck.

165thspc
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 10:24 AM UTC
HEMTTs in civilian service:















I think that first photo is a real beauty - a lot of chrome and a very nice paint job!
165thspc
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 01:34 AM UTC
No not Matt.
mother
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 01:16 AM UTC
Was that Matt, he live nears me and he does a lot of CAD and Shapeways stuff. I also did other truck bits and conversions for American Army Trucks and Engineer Vehicles. I also have the 800 series 5ton trucks.

Joe
165thspc
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 01:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice...thanks. How did you make out on the brake chambers. I took the ones from Trumpeters HEMITT and casted a boat load for my builds.

Happy Modeling,
Joe



One gentleman here on the site was nice enough to send me sufficient brake actuators to do two trucks, so for the moment I'm good. Also the actuators are now available from Mike Goldberg, on the Shapeways digital printing site as well. (See link below.)

https://www.shapeways.com/product/UWGL7XN6U/1-35-hemtt-brake-cylinders-msp35-027?optionId=61301053&li=marketplace
Bigred69
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 12:55 AM UTC
Hello Mike, I like what your Evil mind comes up with. Who knows, maybe one day we will sent older HEMTT's civil colors with different bodies in the back. Just think of the left over vehicles from WWII! Keep up the good work, you are a guiding light to the Truck building side of military vehicles. Ronnie
mother
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 12:42 AM UTC
Nice...thanks. How did you make out on the brake chambers. I took the ones from Trumpeters HEMITT and casted a boat load for my builds.

Happy Modeling,
Joe
165thspc
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 12:12 AM UTC
I use both Evergreen and Plastruct styrene (whatever is available) then drag a medium fine saw blade, long ways over the "wood" a number of times to create the grain. (If you rough up the strip too much just hit it with a little course sand paper to knock some of the grain off.)



I "distress" the styrene strip one board at a time so the pattern on one board never flows over onto the next. I love the "see through" effect between the boards when building something board by board. (I only put glue where the actual attachment points would be on the structure as in the end braces and the riveted metal straps. I never glue the boards along their edges, side to side.)
mother
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Posted: Monday, March 27, 2017 - 11:48 AM UTC
Real nice detail and scratchbuilding Mike...quick question, the wood sides for bed...evergreen and scratched using xacto?

Joe
Stickframe
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Posted: Monday, March 27, 2017 - 11:05 AM UTC
Hi Mike - that looks great - good work, very nicely done!

Cheers
Nick
165thspc
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Posted: Monday, March 27, 2017 - 10:07 AM UTC
Cannot take credit for the engineering. I just followed the exploded drawings in the FUERMA catalog and eyeballed the overall model dimensions to fit the large truck.


(Fuerma online images reproduced here for discussion and research only.)
165thspc
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Posted: Monday, March 27, 2017 - 09:58 AM UTC
Last night's productivity: the hydraulic assembly for the dump bed.



165thspc
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Posted: Monday, March 27, 2017 - 02:49 AM UTC
My latest distraction: I got it in my head that I wanted to build a non-standard HEMTT, so I concocted a free-lanced civy HEMTT with mid-ships mounted crane and a hydraulic dump bed.









Dragon164
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Posted: Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 10:30 AM UTC
Epoxy putty
Milliput

Cheers Rob.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Friday, March 24, 2017 - 12:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...my local hobby shop didn't have a clue regarding the A&B putty product.



Wow!! Really? Surprising. Craft stores may not have it. If not, body filler will work fine, its just not as sculpt-able.
165thspc
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Posted: Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 11:46 PM UTC
OK, my local hobby shop didn't have a clue regarding the A&B putty product. I will check shortly with places like Michael's Art Store and Hobby Lobby. Hopefully I will have the putty before I do the second differential.

As I said, my plastic cutting efforts did not produce the results I had hoped so I switched to using body filler putty. Since it has to go on wet it sort of obliterates what other detail (bolt heads) that may exist in the area but it does achieve the desired shape. (More or less.)

This is where I'm at for the moment:
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 - 07:54 AM UTC
A & B is a brand name. There are many other types though. It is basically two-part putty epoxy. One (A) is usually a grey putty and the other (B) a lighter color putty. Once mixed to become a different color, can be shaped like modeling clay and will harden in a couple hours. Once hard, they can be cut, sanded, shaped, etc. Comes in handy for all sorts of things.
165thspc
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Posted: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 - 07:34 AM UTC
You're probably right Gino but I am not familiar with the product you mentioned. Could you send me a Brand name?

I considered carving it out of a solid but didn't know what to use.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 06:00 PM UTC
I would think it would be much easier to make the conical diff cover using A&B epoxy putty sanded to shape. That is what I would do.
165thspc
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Posted: Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 08:06 AM UTC
So now I am practicing the cutting of these conical shapes in flat plastic to hopefully replicate the face of the simple differentials. So far not doing too well.

Much easier to draw than to cut out in scale.
165thspc
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Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 11:34 PM UTC
HEMTT Simple Differentials:

Be careful what you wish for - eBay Motors will provide it for you!

This one is a rear #4 axle.







Unfortunately due to the angle of the line drawing above I never realized till now, that the simple differentials had such a deep conical faceplate - my model version clearly needs more correction.
165thspc
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Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 11:05 AM UTC
HEMTT SIMPLE DIFFERENTIALS:

I wish I could find as good a photo of the non-gearhead outboard simple differentials. The drawing below is the best I have at this time:

165thspc
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Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 07:50 AM UTC
Another reference shot, this time of the forward pass-through gearhead differential:





165thspc
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Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 07:10 AM UTC
HEMTT DIFFERENTIALS:

This photo posted by Rob (Dragon164) got me thinking. Maybe last time around, when I used the stock Italeri inboard gearhead differentials they may not have been as large as they needed to be?



So now I am up to my old tricks again - removing the gearheads from the two outboard differentials, adding bolt head detail and check plugs to all four difs but also enlarging the stock inboard gearhead (pass-through) differentials even more than before.







I cut the head off the gearbox and then added two .060 x .250" (Evergreen #159) shims to the assembly, glued the head back on and sanded everything to shape. That top cover on the dif is there just to add a bit more mass.
165thspc
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Posted: Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 06:57 PM UTC
Focused thread covering improving the Italeri Grove Crane for the HEMTT going on over at:

http://armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=256601