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Hosted by John Pereira
Half a Year for a Half Track
69mudbone
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California, United States
Member Since: April 26, 2016
entire network: 343 Posts
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Posted: Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 10:06 PM UTC
Hi Mike, when I returned to the hobby last year I told myself to keep it simple. Way back when I built the flying things I tried to get the the "correct" paint, you name the brand I had it, seemed like all I did was chase my tail. NOT THISTIME!!!
Now the only paint I use is Tamiya and I love it, found some nice mixing charts right here in Armorama. I don't prime. I'm old school, wash and dry. And spray several light coats
I use Andrea paints for my "dudes " it covers great and is dead flat. Started using a wet palette, check you-tube out, it really keeps the paint from drying out.
By the way real nice detail work on your track
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 01:08 AM UTC
Looking good Ken.

Old school huh. I remember when the only paint you could buy was Humbrol, and the only way to apply it was with a brush....
... and glue only came in tubes, with 'strings attached', that exploded as soon as you pierced the tip
.... and the rubber tracks had to be stapled together (and they were rubber!!)
... and adding detail meant scrounging for household items and disused containers for materials

and adding mud to a vehicle was thought to be just covering up a bad build

... oh all that effort to type was tiring, I need to go for my first nap of the day now.



Seriously though, I do prime my model when there is significant brass. I find some paints, particularly Tamiya Flat Black doesn't stick too well to brass and even a little brushing for detail work can lift it off raised areas or edges. Tamiya's brand primer in the rattle can is good, but I decant into a jar then airbrush to control the application for complex areas like interiors and around raised components, etc.

What thinner do you use? I use Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner after some of the guys in my club told me to try it instead of the Tamiya acrylic thinner. It seems to give a smoother finish than the acrylic.

Part for the airbrush ordered and should be here Thursday or Friday next week... just before I head off overseas for a couple of weeks.
69mudbone
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 02:17 AM UTC
Peter I use Tamiya A-20x, it seems to work. I haven't tried any brass yet though I have my eye on a Lav25 with some inexpensive brass. Do use one of those clamp and fold gizmos? They do seem cost $$$$
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 02:42 AM UTC
I'm pretty much "old-school" too...but have had to learn the tricks of the trade- I use Vallejo Air paints for the airbrush (just starting to learn the beast)...and I have learned that priming really helps, esp. with PE and a must with resin- I use Valspar Project Perfect (from Lowes) in a rattle can, works great, and very cheap ( $4.00 for a 12-oz can should last me my lifetime)...
69mudbone
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 05:41 AM UTC
Learning how to use the trigger on this dual action will be the death of me . I used a single action for so looong This is fun right
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 06:11 AM UTC
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger!
ltb073
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New York, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 01:22 AM UTC
Pulled this kit out of the stash to be my entry here I just dont know when I will get started but figured I would post the start photo anyway photo P1100147_zpsthrkpjwj.jpg
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 02:40 AM UTC
Looks good, welcome aboard, Sal!
69mudbone
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 06:08 AM UTC
Hi Guys, WIP update my first attempt at the b/w technique. Still trying to get used of this dual action brush. Will let it sit overnight and do base coat.

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Armorsmith
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 07:06 AM UTC
Looks good Ken. Anxious to see the OD on it.
justsendit
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 10:37 AM UTC
@ Sd.Kfz.sevens – Those are some of my favorite tracks — can't wait to see them rolling onto the werkbenches!

@ Ken – That's already looking killer!

—mike
69mudbone
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Posted: Wednesday, March 01, 2017 - 11:23 PM UTC
Hi Guys, put some OD green on, any tips suggestions would be appreciated I think I will maybe try a green/ blue filter?

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Armorsmith
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 01:30 AM UTC
Turned out quite nicely.
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 01:43 AM UTC
Welcome aboard Sal. Nice choice.

Ken, seem to have got the hang of the Dual Action airbrush easily! Looks great.

Yes I have 2 Hold N Fold devices for etch work. I find I use the 'Bug' more than the 5" one, it is a handy palm sized tool that can handle most needs up to reasonable size tool boxes, etc, and it is not that expensive. The 5" I use for large pieces like fenders and the like. It really does pay to use one instead of pliers or tweezers as it holds the part and ensures straight folds, etc. It is an investment just like an airbrush or compressor, and with a lot of kits being multi-media now, you are likely to get your money's worth out of one.

Filters will help break down the uniform colours over the whole vehicle if you layer them. Try not to paint the whole vehicle with uniform filters. Add more layers is different places to add more depth variation. There a lots of articles on filters that probably explain this better than I can.

Dust streaks and where grime has been washed down vertical surfaces to pond in crevices on horizontal will also add some appeal. There is an art to it all, one which I am still learning.

Still waiting for my airbrush part but off on 3 weeks OS leave tomorrow, so I won't be able to post anything for a while. Happy building guys. Catch up when I get home.

justjohn
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 04:05 AM UTC
Ken, it looks great. Did you have any fit problems with that kit?
69mudbone
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 04:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ken, it looks great. Did you have any fit problems with that kit?



Hi John, it's the old Tamiya kit I have had for over twenty years. So it fell together real nice using these old kits to practice on before shelling out big bucks for the newer ones.
Removed by original poster on 03/05/17 - 22:21:33 (GMT).
Hard_Target
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Virginia, United States
Member Since: January 30, 2017
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 07:29 AM UTC
I'm gonna get in on this one.
Thirian24
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Oklahoma, United States
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 07:57 AM UTC
Boy oh boy. I'm gonna be cutting it extremly close if I do not get started on my build soon.
RivetCounter
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Warszawa, Poland
Member Since: October 26, 2012
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 12:18 PM UTC
Hi all, here are my official entry pictures.




I'm going to convert this GMC into T48 (SU-57) version. I think, this will be quite easy and not time-consuming project.
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 08:37 PM UTC
Timothy and Marek, welcome aboard! Dustin, we have until the end of June, even my halftrack is 3 kits away!
69mudbone
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Member Since: April 26, 2016
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Posted: Monday, March 06, 2017 - 10:40 PM UTC
Hi Guys, WIP update applied a green/ blue filter. Now for the gloss coat. I hope these 20 year old decals will work

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Armorsmith
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Posted: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 12:06 AM UTC
Ken- About those 20 year old decals. If they are yellowed try putting them in a window facing the sun for a couple of days to bleach out the yellow. If you are worried about the cracking and falling apart you can spray them with clear gloss and that should hold them together. If you do that you will have to cut/trim each decal individually since after the gloss coat they will all be one big decal. Good luck.
ComradeMP
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Posted: Friday, March 10, 2017 - 08:44 AM UTC

I'm in with this one, it was in the stash so why not?




I'm a few steps in:




Needed a bit of filler here and there, drilled out the ends of the flak guns.
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Posted: Friday, March 10, 2017 - 08:02 PM UTC
I have this in my stash too, Comrade, look forward to your build!