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Rotary Wing
Discuss helicopters and other rotary wing aircraft from any era.
Italeri H-21C "Flying Banana" Blog
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, August 16, 2019 - 04:08 PM UTC
Fred,
I've always liked the H-21. And your build is looking fabulous. I had the 1/72 version of this kit in my stash about ten years ago, and built it for commission for a former Vietnam War Shawnee pilot. I might take another crack at if I can find it in 1/72, 1/48 is a little too big for me. By the way, Testor's still sold the Chromate Yellow in the smaller square bottles up until a few years ago, they might still carry it in their "flats" square bottle line unless Rutoleum did away with it when they bought Testor's out.
VR, Russ
JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
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Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2019 - 04:07 PM UTC
Hi Russ,

Thanks! If you have pix of your Shawnee, post them?

I have a few of the old square bottles. Not sure if they are viable but have been avoiding solvent paints. But I will have to find something.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2019 - 03:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Russ,

Thanks! If you have pix of your Shawnee, post them?

I have a few of the old square bottles. Not sure if they are viable but have been avoiding solvent paints. But I will have to find something.



Fred, unfortunately, the 1/72 Italeri H-21 went with the customer about 10 years ago, and I never photographed it. The kit was a nicely detailed kit for 1/72 scale though. I think it's been repackaged by Revell Germany in Heer markings. As to the Testor's square bottle paints, they were still available a few years ago, but since Rustoleum bought out Testor's, I think they may have been discontinued. I don't know of any other non-solvent paint that comes close to the chromate yellow color-- I guess mixing is the only option. Pro Modeler is long gone now.
VR, Russ
JPTRR
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 02:31 PM UTC
Hi Group,

Not a lot of progress (working on the Airfix B-25) but here's the latest, the canopy. It has intimidated me for far too long. So I put on my big-boy pants, grabbed the tape (and Micro Mask) and an X-acto, and did duel the beast.


You can see where my cutting skill failed but that's where Micro Mssk comes in.

I decided to attach the canopy with Bob Smith Ind. Super Gold+, a CA that does not fog canopies. I used it years ago on a few builds. Just to make sure, there are several drops on this model's clear sprue downstairs. If I have to, I will follow up with epoxy.

My love of masking canopies is fading fast. Doing so has halted my progress more than once over the past few years. But I will not be defeated by inanimate objects!
md72
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 05:09 PM UTC
Wish I'd held out for the Italeri kit. I've got the Hobby Craft kit, it doesn't have near the detail that this one does.
HARV
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2019 - 01:13 PM UTC
It is looking great Fred. I will be following along to watch your progress.

Thanks,
Randy
JPTRR
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Posted: Tuesday, October 08, 2019 - 12:18 PM UTC
Gentlemen,

Thank you for your kind comments. Here's where the H-21 and I are at now: ready for painting.

Italeri made the nose glazing as a single clear plastic part (aside from the two side windows) and I am impressed by the nice detail of the framing. But now comes the tricky part - mating that big piece of plastic to the fuselage.

I think the key is the bottom of the canopy mated to the bottom of the fuselage. Here, Italeri got this complex curvature right, although the joining of the fuselage halves here can upset the fit. Mine went on well and I held it in place while the non-fogging CA set.


But the ends do not touch the fuselage sides, leaving a 1mm gap!


I held the canopy in place and squeezed it in to match the contour of the fuselage, holding it together with Excel plastic clamps, and filled the gap with CA.


The copilot side conformed and filled well.


But although the pilot's side was also smoothly formed with the fuselage when I squirted in the CA, in the morning the upper half bowed inward, about a scale 3 inches! I resorted to Tamiya putty.


It looked bad and did not level the step, so I micro-sawed the canopy away from the fuselage, re-positioned the canopy edge along the fuselage edge, and hit it with more CA. This time I held it to ensure no styrene shenanigans.

JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Posted: Tuesday, October 08, 2019 - 12:31 PM UTC
So here we are, ready to re-paint the model where sanding the fuselage seams removed paint, and painting the canopy. Hopefully, the paint will not reveal unacceptable gaps/surfaces where the canopy part mates to the fuselage.


HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, October 09, 2019 - 12:51 AM UTC
Looking good. One question, why do you paint the fuselage halves before attaching them together? I leave it all unpainted on the outside and paint it all at once after filling, sanding, etc...
JPTRR
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#051
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Posted: Thursday, October 10, 2019 - 05:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

One question, why do you paint the fuselage halves before attaching them together?


Hi Gino,

Good question. The answer is that I am not happy with recent masking of fuselage windows. I decided to experiment with this kit - paint and decal, then attach the windows and then mate the fuselage halves. I am betting that I can protect the windows and decals with low-tack tape when I repaint the sanded seam lines.

I will discover in a few hours if this unconventional method worked acceptably. Hope to have the pix posted by tonight.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, October 10, 2019 - 08:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

One question, why do you paint the fuselage halves before attaching them together?


Hi Gino,

Good question. The answer is that I am not happy with recent masking of fuselage windows. I decided to experiment with this kit - paint and decal, then attach the windows and then mate the fuselage halves. I am betting that I can protect the windows and decals with low-tack tape when I repaint the sanded seam lines.

I will discover in a few hours if this unconventional method worked acceptably. Hope to have the pix posted by tonight.



Fred, that's actually an "old school" technique to paint the fuselage halves then install the windows. Although in the "olden days" folks cared less about seam lines, which I know you'll be going over as the project continues. I sometimes do the same thing, the same way you're going with this build. I use a different approach to windows in 1/72 and some 1/48 models-- I paint the interior, then glue the windows in securely, assemble the fuselage halves, sand out the window seams on the outside, then polish the windows and mask them on the outside. Sometimes I have to create special masks by punching out corners of masking material attached to plastic sheet then pulling it off, or cutting masking tape stuck to a thin plastic sheet that's marked using the original window opening as a template. Your canopy technique is a good one for framing the canopy (especially if the canopy has a bad fit). One other note--dipping your clear parts in Pledge-Future-Kleer keeps cyanoacrylate from "fogging" the clear parts.
VR, Russ
JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Posted: Thursday, October 10, 2019 - 12:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

One other note--dipping your clear parts in Pledge-Future-Kleer keeps cyanoacrylate from "fogging" the clear parts.
VR, Russ



Hi Russ,

good information. Thanks. I've been contemplating the mask-then-trim-then-install window technique for the Airfix B-25 I'm building. For an 'aircraft guy,' canopies have often been my weak spot. I once loved to paint them but then realized my skill with them did not match my increasing expectations.

I did not know (or recall) that Future keeps cyanoacrylate from "fogging" the clear parts. I thought Future just makes clear parts clearer; all of these clear parts have a layer of Future. I'll try a Future-treated canopy with regular CA.

Thanks again!
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, October 10, 2019 - 01:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

One other note--dipping your clear parts in Pledge-Future-Kleer keeps cyanoacrylate from "fogging" the clear parts.
VR, Russ



Hi Russ,

good information. Thanks. I've been contemplating the mask-then-trim-then-install window technique for the Airfix B-25 I'm building. For an 'aircraft guy,' canopies have often been my weak spot. I once loved to paint them but then realized my skill with them did not match my increasing expectations.

I did not know (or recall) that Future keeps cyanoacrylate from "fogging" the clear parts. I thought Future just makes clear parts clearer; all of these clear parts have a layer of Future. I'll try a Future-treated canopy with regular CA.

Thanks again!



Fred, try a non-Futured scrap clear part, and compare it with a Futured part-- you'll see the difference after it dries. 95% of the time, without using a Future coat, you'll get fogging. One of the first things I do with a kit is soak the clear parts in Future, precisely for that reason, because I generally use cyanoacrylate to glue clear parts in. To make sure I don't have seams, I'll sand the outside of the model with the windows in place, and then polish them out on the outside. Sometimes (like you did) I'll attach them to a fuselage half, do my sanding and finishing, and go and touch up the areas that have to be joined later. In that case, I'll re-future windows with a fine brush after polishing them out.
VR, Russ