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Cold War (1950-1974)
Discuss the aircraft modeling subjects during the Cold War period.
Hosted by Tim Hatton
Best Starfighter Ever?
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2018 - 06:18 AM UTC
Steve,
I'm just amazed at the difference in appearance of the seat using your new technique. it really does look real.

I just checked out that link, and I'll be spending quite a bit of time there just trying to learn the basics as I truly suck at mixing colors other then just adding this or that and hoping for the best.

joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 - 08:54 AM UTC
Hi Matt

Thanks very much. I've been leaning on the work by an artist called Mark Carder. He's posted a lot of great stuff aimed at artists working in oils, but I find it a good source for us modellers too. Have a look at this for starters:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQYcG4Km1-k

I hope it helps.

Happy modelling,

Steve.
Scrodes
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Posted: Monday, July 09, 2018 - 10:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

After getting inspiration from some artists’ work on Youtube I tried a different approach.
Before…





Looks fantastic!

Care to share?
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Monday, July 09, 2018 - 08:50 AM UTC
With the main colours blocked in, the next step is to enhance light and dark areas. The traditional way to do this is using washes and dry brushing. I’ve used the same techniques many times but recently I’ve become dissatisfied. The reason is that a wash tints all the shadows the same colour, when in reality they are not, and dry brushing catches edges rather than the planes that reflect most of the light. After getting inspiration from some artists’ work on Youtube I tried a different approach. This time I created shadows using a colour wheel to decide on the right tones, and I used yellow or white to highlight planes that will catch the light. Colour was applied in several light filters. Here’s a comparison of the seat, before and after. I’ve also included a shot of the palette (a.k.a. a jar lid) so you can see the variety of whites, blues and greys that I used on the grey areas of the seat.

Before…



and after.



Hopefully you can see that the colour is more rich in the second shot and overall there appears to be more depth and interest.

As promised here’s the, er… palette.


SteveAndrews
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Posted: Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 09:16 AM UTC
Hi Michael

Thanks very much. I hope to show some more soon. I do have to give another plug for Mission Model Paints which seem to load onto the brush beautifully and cover well too.

Have a great day,

Steve
Cosimodo
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Posted: Monday, June 25, 2018 - 09:49 PM UTC
Great detail painting Steve. The seat looks superb.

cheers

Michael
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Monday, June 25, 2018 - 08:02 AM UTC
I reached for the paintbrushes. Here’s the ejector seat with the main colours blocked in. I used a combination of Vallejo model colour and Mission Model Paints, applying two or three thin layers to preserve as much detail as I could and keep the finish as smooth as a polished, er… smooth thing. Mission Model Paints are great for brush painting. They thin well, don’t dry out too quickly and have a good self-levelling quality. There are a few more details to do, and once theses basic colours have dried I’ll enhance the shadows and highlights and do bit of weathering.







Happy modelling guys

P.S. RIP Military Modelling.

P.P.S. England 6:1 Panama!
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 06:29 PM UTC
Hey Joel,

Thanks very much. The brushes are out and Im blocking in some basic colours. Photos soon.

Have a great day,

Steve
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 08:08 AM UTC
Steve,
The gray color coat really makes that seat pop. Looking forward to seeing more of your cockpit painting.
Joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Sunday, June 17, 2018 - 07:42 AM UTC
When it comes to painting cockpits, I tend to use techniques that are more commonly found in armour modelling; techniques like colour modulation, filters and chipping. To start the interior of the F-104C I mixed up a mid-grey with a slight blue tint using Tamiya paints and levelling thinner. I sprayed it on lightly in areas in shadow such as the floor and the lower sidewalls, to let the primer show. I added some white to the mix and gave heavier coat to surfaces that face up towards the light or are exposed, for example to top third of the ejector seat. In short I used a pretty standard modulation technique. The results are more obvious to the naked eye than they are in the photos below, but you might get a hint of the tint.

The grey coat has revealed a few imperfections, but none are bad enough to go back a step. However the grey also showed up one very irritating omission; I forgot to add the row of buttons in the recessed part of the left side instrument panel. Luckily, Eduard supplies a coloured photo-etch part. After all my moaning the coloured PE is coming to my rescue. I guess that's karma.

Next up I’ll be reaching for the paint brushes.

Happy modelling guys.










SteveAndrews
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Posted: Sunday, June 03, 2018 - 10:52 PM UTC
Hi Michael

Thanks very much. Ultimate Primer is from these guys:

https://www.umpretail.com/

It's actually Stynylrez primer from Badger repackaged, which might be more familiar and/or available in the US?

Whichever one you go for, they are definitely worth a try. Just don't be put off by how thick it is out of the bottle - follow the instructions and it will reward you every time.

Have a great day,

S


Cosimodo
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Posted: Sunday, June 03, 2018 - 07:45 PM UTC
Very nice Steve. I haven't heard of Ultimate Primer. Who makes that because it certainly has a smooth finish.

cheers

Michael
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Sunday, June 03, 2018 - 07:00 AM UTC
After a week at a work conference with morning to evening chatter, I’m delighted to be back with very silent plastic. Jeez, if talk saved the world we’d all be living in peace and prosperity. Anyhow, with the extra riveting done I can turn my attention to paint. Woo-hoo. This is my favourite bit. Having used so may different materials in the cockpit I decided a good primer was essential. My absolute favourite is Ultimate Primer. It’s almost foolproof and dries to a lovely satin sheen. I chose to spray black so that it will also act as shadow, reducing the air pressure to get close-up when I needed to get into all the nooks. I also did a little test, thinning the gloopy primer a bit and spraying an area of the engine that won’t show. It proved that there’s really no need to thin it, and in fact it doesn’t like to be thinned. You can see the little blotches thinning left.

While the primer was drying I fitted the rear wall of the gun bay. This is a big section of photo etch with some slim contact areas on the fuselage. I superglued it in place but I was worried that working on it later I might push it back inside, which would be a disaster once the fuselage is all glued together. To reinforce it I glued some ‘L’ shaped sections of evergreen strip around the edge. Hopefully that will avoid problems later. Here it all is in glorious technicolour.











And here’s what happens when the Ultimate Primer is thinned - you can see the little blotches.



And the rear wall of the gun bay…



reinforced.



That was fun. Happy modelling guys.

Steve.
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Thursday, May 17, 2018 - 02:01 PM UTC
Joel, you are too kind - thank you.

I still find it frustrating though and I feel for people who buy a kit and expect too get a good result out of the box. That should be the minimum a manufacturer offers I think.

Anyhow, I went into this one with eyes wide open, so I can't moan too much. Just enough to feel a bit better :-)

Have a great day,

Steve
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, May 17, 2018 - 04:19 AM UTC
Steve,
Your modeling skills are way above the level needed to tame that lizard skin to one that's silky smooth.

the absolutely worst case I've ever seen of Lizard Skin was Kitty Hawk's 1st release: the 1/48 scale F-94C. My God, I thought that I could have used it for sandpaper.

Joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Thursday, May 17, 2018 - 02:33 AM UTC
Hi guys

Well, I have to say I'm late to the party as far as Paul's work and techniques are concerned. His ideas seem very fresh to me and I really enjoy the thought he puts into building models.

As for a choice of paints, if I stick to my plan to reproduce a natural metal finish I'll reach for AK's Extreme Metal, simply because I have quite a few already. I tried them out on a 1/48 scale Starfighter I was working on a while ago with some good results:







And Joel, yes that crazy lizard skin is a pain. I'm in the 'hate' phase of my love/hate relationship with Italeri again.

Have a great day guys.

Steve
Kevlar06
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 10:23 AM UTC
Yep-- he also has at some models of various aircraft featured in the books "The Scratch Builders" and " Scratch Built" by John Alcorn (John was a member of our local modeling group until he passed away last year-- also well worth a look). Paul is a Dentist in Northern Californa, that's how he has such interesting tools-- but he tells you how to acquire them on his website. Well worth taking the time to visit.
VR, Russ
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 06:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Guys, Paul is an occasional contributor here as well, I haven't seen anything from him lately, but a couple of years ago I asked a question regarding what "the best M4A3 Sherman" was over on Armorama, and Paul chipped in! He has also tinkered around the Armor world as well. I agree, his techniques, videos and articles have been my go-to source for years as well. As for those rivets, I think they will really pop under a coat of Alclad, I'm assuming that's going to be your finishing choice?
VR, Russ



Russ,
Paul builds just about everything in plastic sooner or later. He's a Sherman specialist as far as armor goes, and has built just about every Tamiya F1 car to date.

His best known model is a 1/48 scale scratch built PBY-5A that he won the IPMS Nationals with as well as Best in Show back in the 1970s.
Joel
Kevlar06
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 05:32 AM UTC
Guys, Paul is an occasional contributor here as well, I haven't seen anything from him lately, but a couple of years ago I asked a question regarding what "the best M4A3 Sherman" was over on Armorama, and Paul chipped in! He has also tinkered around the Armor world as well. I agree, his techniques, videos and articles have been my go-to source for years as well. As for those rivets, I think they will really pop under a coat of Alclad, I'm assuming that's going to be your finishing choice?
VR, Russ
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 02:44 AM UTC
Steve,

I've gone down the same path as you several times trying to get a smooth surface so that the painting process wouldn't look like lizard skin. Why manufactures invest the time and then spend the money to produce these unnatural surface textures is beyond me.

As for Paul Budzik, I've followed his builds since the 70s when he regularly had them published in the model magazines. I've mentioned on every model build of late that my new decal procedures are a modification of his.

Joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 01:39 AM UTC
When I’m not in the mood for working on my own models I spend time looking at other people’s work, especially the various contributors on Youtube. One man I have a lot of admiration for is Paul Budzik. If you haven’t checked out his videos or his web-site then take a look.

http://paulbudzik.com

You’ll find an analytical, informed and well communicated approach to model making. Paul focuses primarily on making models with a very high degree of scale accuracy. You won’t find him discussing the latest washes or glues, but you will find him offering views about working with plastic and paint that are different from the frequently repeated techniques in ‘How to’ shows. I guess you could say I am a fan, even I haven’t tied all his techniques yet.

One thing I’ve learnt from Paul’s approach is not to be a slave to manufacturer supplied detail if it gets in the way of building a kit. So, it was that I found myself looking at the surface of Italeri’s F-104c and my own added detail. There was a problem nagging away at me. The plastic has too much surface texture to make a good base for the natural metal finish I have planned, and all my riveting and scribing had made it worse. I felt the urge to sand and smooth it out, but I was worried about losing the rivet detail I had just added. In the end the urge for a smooth surface won and I held my breath and started sanding. I tried the underside first in case I was on a path to disaster, using first 600 grit then 3,000 grit and then a polishing sponge, and all the time nervous that I was obliterating hours of work.

Once the dust had cleared (and been wiped off) I was left with a smooth surface but I had rivet holes clogged with dust. Well, at least there were holes to clog, I thought. After some cleaning up with a stiff brush and water I had holes and a smooth surface. Phew! It worked. The shot below shows how subtle the added rivets are now. You have to look hard to see the rows of smaller rivets. It also gives some idea of the smooth surface texture. It is easier to feel than it is to see. I can feel it is smoother when I run a finger across. I hope the rivets survive primer and paint well enough to take a wash, but so far it is job done, with thanks to Paul for his inspiring videos (even if he wouldn’t approve of my out of scale panel lines). Stay tuned dear viewers for the next instalment.



Happy modelling.

Steve
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 04:01 PM UTC
Hi Russ, Joel and Matt

Thanks so much for the encouragement guys. I have to admit there are times when the obsessive attention to detail here seems a bit mad. I guess we'll see if it is worth it when the kit is finished. Maybe I'll be done in time for Christmas. Wait... didn't someone promise that once before?

Happy modelling and thanks for dropping in.

Steve
Scrodes
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 04:32 AM UTC
Beautiful display or skills.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 01:59 AM UTC
I'll just add a "a job well done"-- everywhere! As far as I can see this is really going to be "the best Starfighter ever". I don't know though, I used to think the Hasegawa kit was outclassed by Italeri's F104, but it has the rivets in place (along with those pesky raised panel lines too). I'll have to rethink "sending down" the rivets now. The trick will be to keep the rivet and loose the panel lines! Anyway, excellent job Steve, you're certainly "raising the bar" for us!
VR, Russ
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2018 - 01:41 AM UTC
Steve,
I'll 2nd that on a job well done on the vents.
Joel