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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
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Pirate Felucca
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, August 26, 2018 - 09:51 AM UTC
John congrats on such a neat little build.

Can only echo what Mark and Tim said.

Thanks for sharing, so good to see something a little bit off the beaten path.

Look forward to seeing what you've got planned next!
TimReynaga
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Posted: Friday, August 24, 2018 - 07:25 AM UTC
Hi John,

I really like your completed Felucca. We are all our own worst critics, and I'm sure you see only the flaws, but I think you have met the various challenges of this vintage kit quite credibly. I especially like your rigid wire solution to the standing rigging - simple and effective. No build is perfect, but my view is that you have produced a colorful, graceful, and very appealing little model of which you can justly be proud!

d6mst0
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Posted: Thursday, August 23, 2018 - 02:09 PM UTC
Sweet looking ship. Hats off to anyone that would take on a sailing ship.

Mark
YellowHammer
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Posted: Thursday, August 23, 2018 - 08:38 AM UTC
Hi Guys,
Well I finally got the Felucca finished. It's been a little fighter all the way. Tim, I was able to get some accelerator at our local Hobby Lobby, which helped me quite a bit. I had to deal with a final poor decision I made during construction which gave me all sorts of trouble in completing the rigging. I had set both masts before rigging. Even with accelerator for my CA glue and fine needle nose tweezers for the thread, I could not get between the masts to set the stays. After numerous attempts I came up with the idea of using fine wire for the stays. I used 0.015mm brass wire, painted black. I used a couple of loops of black thread at the top of the mast to cover the wire ends, and I didn't have to worry about keeping tension while the glue dried. I used a natural color thread for the running rigging. I know the rigging isn't complete, but gives an idea of what's involved in sailing the ship.

I've provided a few final photos below. Sorry for the crappy photo quality.

I've enjoyed this build and learned a lot. I appreciate all the comments and advice you all provided; it helped a lot. I would appreciate any final thoughts you might have.

Good luck and keep building!
John









YellowHammer
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Posted: Monday, July 23, 2018 - 05:42 PM UTC
Thanks for the replies Tim. I'm going to have to source some CA accelerator and give it another shot. And actually I had more in mind the rollers you talked about, I just didn't know the name for them. So I learned two things tonight.
Thanks
John
TimReynaga
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Posted: Monday, July 23, 2018 - 07:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Another random thought for future builds hit me as I was looking at the Nina and Pinta build logs tonight; since their sails/spars were raised and lowered from the deck could the locator pins on the spars be used as anchor points for gaffs around the mast. It would seem to me something would be in place to keep the spar aligned while raising and lowering.



That's a great thought, but (at least for the Niña and Pinta), the spars were held in place with roller parrels, which were flexible bands that looked something like beaded necklaces - completely unlike those dopey pegs provided by Pyro.
Doh!
TimReynaga
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Posted: Monday, July 23, 2018 - 07:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey guys,
Just an quick update and request for help. I'm still working on the rigging on the Felucca and I'm having a devil of a time anchoring the clew lines to the deck or hull side with any kind of tension. I haven't been able to find any clamps small enough to hold the thread in place while the glue dries. Do you guys have any suggestions. I was hoping for a look like Tim did with his Nina and Pinta builds.

TIA
John



Hi John,

Keeping tension on the lines can definitely be a challenge! On my Niña and Pinta builds I placed tiny dots of super glue with a toothpick, then pressed the lines into them and held them there with very gentle pressure using an X-acto. When they set I just pressed the X-acto to cut them. The secret is to brush on a bit of cyanoacrylate accelerator, which will dry the glue spots instantly and freeze the tension on the lines.
YellowHammer
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Posted: Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 11:39 AM UTC
Hey guys,
Just an quick update and request for help. I'm still working on the rigging on the Felucca and I'm having a devil of a time anchoring the clew lines to the deck or hull side with any kind of tension. I haven't been able to find any clamps small enough to hold the thread in place while the glue dries. Do you guys have any suggestions. I was hoping for a look like Tim did with his Nina and Pinta builds.

Another random thought for future builds hit me as I was looking at the Nina and Pinta build logs tonight; since their sails/spars were raised and lowered from the deck could the locator pins on the spars be used as anchor points for gaffs around the mast. It would seem to me something would be in place to keep the spar aligned while raising and lowering.

TIA
John
YellowHammer
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2018 - 09:44 AM UTC
Thanks guys for the comments and encouragement. Russ, thanks for those tips. I still have the small scale Ertl Chinese junk (with 5 masts!), a Pyro Pinta, and two Heller Roman Biremes on my near term shelf. I'm refurbishing an old Heller Oseberg Drakkar in parallel to this felucca. I had to replace the mast with brass wire as the plastic one shattered. I'm going to try your notch idea on the spar. Now to purging my gallery.
John
RussellE
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2018 - 09:32 AM UTC
John, that's a big improvement on the masts.

If you're having difficulty glueing them together after removing the 'pegs' you could always file some small grooves into each mast at the intersection point so that they sit someway into each other.

Also drilling a hole and adding a brass pin to key their location may also help
TimReynaga
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2018 - 01:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...My next frustration dealt with the masts and spars. The kit comes with spars with molded sails attached. The spars have two pegs to assist in attaching the spars to the masts. These really look out of place so I removed them prior to mounting on the masts. BIG mistake. Without the pegs there is very little gluing surface for attaching the spars. And the sail/spars were too heavy and oddly shaped to allow clamping or taping to the mast while the glue set. I finally had to carefully removed the masts and clamp the spars to the mast while they were laying flat. Then had to reattach the masts. With the heavy sails on them I had a lot of trouble keeping them near vertical...



Hi John,

I faced the same choice with my Pyro Niña a couple of years back, but I opted to leave those little pegs, thinking they were inconspicuous - and they now annoy me every time I look at the model!




Even though it may have complicated construction, you made the right choice in removing them.

Keep up the good work, your felucca is looking better and better!

Cosimodo
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2018 - 07:41 PM UTC
Great progress John. The sails look excellent. looking forward to see you go with the rigging.

cheers
Michael
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2018 - 03:33 PM UTC
Hi folks,
After taking a hiatus to deal with some medical issues I finally have some progress to report. I ran into some problems with the build. First I tried to put rope lashings on the deck cannon. I made five attempts using various thread and small diameter wire with no success. It was impossible to clamp or hold the thread in position due to the small size of the guns. The wire I used, copper and steel beading wire had to much memory (spring) when I bent them so the would not hold shape. To save the build from fatal frustration I decided to omit the lashings.

My next frustration dealt with the masts and spars. The kit comes with spars with molded sails attached. The spars have two pegs to assist in attaching the spars to the masts. These really look out of place so I removed them prior to mounting on the masts. BIG mistake. Without the pegs there is very little gluing surface for attaching the spars. And the sail/spars were too heavy and oddly shaped to allow clamping or taping to the mast while the glue set. I finally had to carefully removed the masts and clamp the spars to the mast while they were laying flat. Then had to reattach the masts. With the heavy sails on them I had a lot of trouble keeping them near vertical. They aren't perfect but they're good enough for my shelf.

The stand I scrounged from an old Airfix Mayflower kit. I thought it looked better. I used the nameplate decal from the kit.

I've included a few photos below. I'm almost out of storage space on Kitmaker so I'll have to purge my gallery before posting more.


Next up will be some simple rigging and placing the last deck items: ropes, anchor, etc.









As always, comments and suggestions welcome.
John
TimReynaga
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Posted: Sunday, April 29, 2018 - 05:55 PM UTC
It looks like you nailed those flags, John! Patience and persistence pays off.
YellowHammer
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Posted: Sunday, April 29, 2018 - 07:10 AM UTC
Hi Folks,
Time for another update. I've added some of the items to the deck. Tim, I appreciate your offer of a poop deck rail but I hope to be able to tie off some of the main mast running rigging and I don't think I could get the thread I intend to use through the small openings in the rail. I scrounged an HO scale ladder and cut out a piece to use for the rail. It may be a little over scale but should give me a better anchor point. I've also placed the cutter. It's a little long for the space so I had to sand it to get it to sit flatter and it overhangs the forward hatch to prevent interfering with placing the main mast.

I worked on the masts. The mold seams gave me fits and I still don't know if I got them all. I was originally going to remove the molded flags and just use the decals on metal foil to make the flags; but when I reviewed Tim's Nina and Pinta blogs for rigging tips I saw again how he used the molded flags to advantage so I decided to keep them. My hands trembled a little during the painting and I started losing my depth perception when using my optivisor which slowed my down. It took me three days to paint the flags. They're not perfect but they're the best I can do. I have no idea if the flags (and decals)are historically accurate so I just went with colors shown elsewhere on the kit. I removed the stern post and replaced it with the kit flag staff. However, this flag was smooth so I gave it a base coat of black and then used the black flag w/scimitar decals. I put a cover coat of Future to prevent silvering. That's why it's so shiny in the photos. It's starting to come together but I still have a way to go.











Sorry about the photo quality. I tried a different photo set up but the overhead lighting seems to highlight the yellow colors. Not really sure why the foremast looks off. I may have taken the photo at a slight angle. I know I've got some glue marks visible that I need to address. I also need to stain the masts and cutter. If you see anything else I've screwed up so far let me know. I want to correct what I can before I mount the sails and start the rigging.

All comments welcome. Thanks for looking.
John







Kevlar06
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Posted: Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 03:37 AM UTC
I love these old Pyro ships-- but they are so tiny. An ideal application for them would be to build a whole fleet and put them into a diorama! Barbary Pirates Vs Edward Prebble and the USS Constitution maybe?
VR, Russ
JClapp
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Posted: Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 03:14 AM UTC
That is delightful! coming along nicely.
JJ1973
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Posted: Saturday, April 21, 2018 - 11:19 PM UTC
John,

this looks indeed pretty cool!

Nice start, count me in for your build!

Cheers,
Jan
TimReynaga
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Posted: Saturday, April 21, 2018 - 08:09 PM UTC
Hi John,

Looking good so far! I love the vivid colors on your Felucca - most ships are such drab gray or wood, and this makes for a brilliant departure.

Good catch with the cabin windows; on the poorly printed 1967 Pyro boxtop I have they are indistinct blue rectangles which I took to be decorative elements. Painting them up as false gunports neatly solves the problem of their inaccurate positioning!

The Felucca kit I have is a half-assembled mess I picked up at a swap meet, but the poop deck rail part is still on the sprue. Let me know if you can't come up with a replacement for your poorly molded one and I'll send the part to you.
YellowHammer
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Posted: Saturday, April 21, 2018 - 09:51 AM UTC
Hi folks,
Time for an update. After filling the holes in the hull I used some Tamiya rattle can dark yellow as the base coat. I let it dry for a day and then started the detail painting. After looking at a lot of illustrations I decided to go with the yellow on the hull above the water line with white below and red railings. The feluccas often had colorful paint schemes. I used buff for the deck to give a slightly lighter hue. The buff was AV Model Color and the rest were craft acrylics. I decided to go with white for the scroll work. I didn't think the pirates would waste gold for this purpose. It took me several tries and I'm still not really happy with it but I've pushed my eyesight and hand tremors as far as I can go. Here's a few photos:







I apologize again for the quality of the photos. You may have noticed on the poop deck rails I used a kelly green background. Also there are some boxes along the bottom of the rail. In the illustration on the box top these are shown as windows for the main cabin. However due to some measurement error by the mold makers they are above the poop deck, not below. So I painted them black as false gun ports to make the ship look more heavily armed than it is.

I liberated a flag pole from the La Realle kit for the stern and made a bow sprit out of stiff wire. Then I made a wash of raw umber oil paint with paint thinner. I was concerned that this might attack the Tamiya paint as the can lists it as acrylic enamel paint. I tested it on some scrap sheet plastic with the Tamiya paint base coat and had no issues. Its hard to make out in the photos but it bring out the wood grain on the hull and deck. I also used it on the sails but forgot to take a photo of the sails. Here's where I am at the moment.







I'm starting to work on the guns. There's sink marks and mold seams on each one. I liberated a cannon from the La Realle kit to serve as a bow chaser. The ship's boat has planking detail so it got the same treatment as the hull. The poop deck rail was not completely formed in the mold so I'm scrounging in my parts boxes for an alternative. I'm also looking for other deck fittings to help busy the deck. I'm going to put simple rigging on the cannons. This and the standing/running rigging should help camouflage the smooth inner walls of the rails

All comments and constructive criticism appreciated
Thanks for looking.
John













YellowHammer
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Posted: Saturday, April 14, 2018 - 12:34 AM UTC
Hi guys. Just a short update.
I've filled the oar ports in the hull. I used 2mm disks punched from .010mm plastic card. The hole punch came from the scrapbooking aisle at Hobby Lobby. They have several punch sizes. Its a cheap alternative to a punch and die set.



I used Tamiya white putty on top of the disks.



Sorry for the quality of the photos. Hands shaking a little today.

While waiting for the putty to dry I worked on the ejector pin marks on the back side of the sails. There are three pin marks on each sail near the corners and another pin mark where the spars overlap. The plastic is easy to work with, not brittle at all. Care will be needed as some of the pin marks are on the sail ribs.

After the putty dried I did some sanding and then I hit the hull with Tamiya spray can TS-3 Dark Yellow base coat to look for areas needing additional work.

So now I'm waiting for the paint to dry. This may take a while as its humid in my house from the thunderstorms outside.

Thanks for looking.
John


YellowHammer
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Posted: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 - 07:25 AM UTC
Tim,
Thanks for those illustrations. I've decided to fill the oar ports and stack the oars along the quarterdeck rails. I like that color scheme too. Interesting that your illustrations show a third mast. I've got some parts from other small scale sailing ships. I may try and add that mizzen mast if I can find another lateen sail. I also will be adding a bowsprit and a mizzen boom if I add the mizzen mast.
Thanks everyone for all the comments so far.
John
YellowHammer
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Posted: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 - 07:16 AM UTC
Jonathan,
I appreciate your comments. Early on I thought about filling the oar ports and storing the oars either inboard or outboard the quarterdeck rails. From what I've read the sweeps were often extended through the gun ports or through oar ports between the guns because the ships sat low in the water similar to a galley. I may go that route. I'm still working on the hull so it wouldn't be a problem. Thanks again.
John
TimReynaga
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Posted: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 - 07:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...the sweeps in the kit are huge and hideous, and the sweep ports also look much too large and too low - like, below the water line.
Sweep ports were much smaller than a gun port. in this scale they would be barely recognizable as a hole in the side: an 18 inch square port would be .007". I think you would be justified in filling the kit ports and drilling tiny holes to insert your new oars along a new line higher up under the wales...



I agree. Check out this felucca rendering from Björn Landström’s The Ship: An Illustrated History:

Unlike Pyro's interpretation, the sweep ports look to be at the main deck level next to the larger gun ports - near, but definitely above, the water line.
JClapp
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Posted: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 - 06:19 AM UTC
That will make a lovely ship model. I think the proportions look good. Also, I love the lateen sails.
I have looked at a few finished ones on the internet. I have to agree the sweeps in the kit are huge and hideous, and the sweep ports also look much too large and too low - like, below the water line.
Sweep ports were much smaller than a gun port. in this scale they would be barely recognizable as a hole in the side: an 18 inch square port would be .007". I think you would be justified in filling the kit ports and drilling tiny holes to insert your new oars along a new line higher up under the wales.
but Im really just an armchair sailor, so please carry on with your plan.