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Porsche campaign anyone?
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2018 - 02:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text


UPDATE

Life will be boring without drama, right?
I changed my heart in the last moment and decided to use polyurethane clear instead of 2K, thinking its amber tone will complement excellently the copper. I tried first on the rims and it worked a threat! I moved to the engine cover and spoiler and here the things took a completely different turn. The clear coat started making bubbles and set unevenly. I recognized immediately the symptom: too little thinner. I tried to save it in the last moment, applying a heavily thinned coat, but It started running... Too bad for me: in the areas where the clear went good, the shine was just amazing! I threw the parts in my ultrasound cleaner for stripping, using enamel thinner as cleaning agent. The spoiler went clean right away but the engine cover didn't clean properly not even after the third 360 seconds cycle and the thinner began to etch the plastic surface:

I start restoring the parts and everything works fine (I guess)

The body had to suffer less of an ordeal in my hands: just some light sanding to eliminate the orange peel or grit deposits. Only now I can claim the body is silky smooth:

Once dry, the body will receive a patching paint job and a 2K clear coat, as per initial plan.

Cheers!
Gabriel




Gabriel,

Great save on the clear coating issues. How are you going to remove the rest of the paint on the spoiler? The shell really does look smooth and consistent. I concur that going with 2K clearcoat is the right choice as you're an expert with it. One day I'll get there for sure.

Joel
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2018 - 05:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Your copper looks fantastic Gabriel and I agree the Rust-oleum looks better than the Alclad. I have never seen a cooper car so this will be a first for me. The finish looks flawless.



Michael, only the rims will be copper, but I need the metallic undercoat for my home made carbon fiber decals and for the pearlescent paint as well...

But! Same as you, I was rather surprised with the way the body looks sprayed all copper and I think I found a practical application: metallic auburn color which was very popular in the '50s in US and really stands out from all the other colors of its time. It seems to me that it will come easy to tweak the Rust-oleum copper to metallic auburn... to be tested.


Quoted Text

Gabriel,

Great save on the clear coating issues. How are you going to remove the rest of the paint on the spoiler? The shell really does look smooth and consistent. I concur that going with 2K clearcoat is the right choice as you're an expert with it. One day I'll get there for sure.



Joel, I'm in the full process of restoring my engine bay cover. For now I just sanded carefully the edges of the remaining paint and the etched plastic surface. The only problem is with the edges of those aerodynamic funnels because if I sand to heavy I will hinder the match of the spoiler with the cover. Probably I will need to apply some thick lacquer primer to smooth out the etched surface of the plastic, before the base coat. And you are right about the 2K. I's still cursing myself for trying anything else just from the masochistic pleasure to screw it up (see infra)

UPDATE

I have reclaimed my spoiler. After stripping the paint, I sanded it with 2000 grit Tamiya sponge and it was ready. I went determined to finish it in one session: Krylon gloss black - airbrush cleaning - Alclad II Copper - airbrush change and 2K mixing - 2K coating. Easy!


And that was it with the spoiler. There are some dry paint spots breaking here and there the surface of the clear, but nothing to worry: 2K behaves very well under sanding sponge and all I need there is a smooth base for carbon fiber decal. Case solved!
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2018 - 09:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text


UPDATE

I have reclaimed my spoiler. After stripping the paint, I sanded it with 2000 grit Tamiya sponge and it was ready. I went determined to finish it in one session: Krylon gloss black - airbrush cleaning - Alclad II Copper - airbrush change and 2K mixing - 2K coating. Easy!

And that was it with the spoiler. There are some dry paint spots breaking here and there the surface of the clear, but nothing to worry: 2K behaves very well under sanding sponge and all I need there is a smooth base for carbon fiber decal. Case solved!




Gabriel,
Congrats on the save. it' looks perfect.

Joel
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2018 - 11:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Gabriel,
Congrats on the save. it' looks perfect.

Joel



Thank you, Joel
I still have to recover the engine bay cover and to print my decals... the spoiler isn't over yet!

UPDATE

I couldn't let the week-end pass by without having completed at least the stage of pre-painting the body. I patched the metallic paint job, I waited to dry and then polished it very gently with a cloth - just enough to remove the insulated dry grains from the surface.

I sprayed three coats of 2K but, to be honest, I think the third one was redundant, because now more likely I need to scuff it up for the main coat to catch on it But I wanted to test it to the limits and to make sure I can achieve that result on the completed model. Apparently I can




What's next? Finishing the spoiler, I guess. 2K needs some three days to fully cure and I'm not too eager to start the interior yet!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 02:08 AM UTC
Gabriel,
WoW !! You're the master of 2K clear finishes for sure.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 06:23 AM UTC
After discussing my idea with Gabriel of doing a full build blog in the Car forum and just making a short post here about the new update with a few pictures, I've decided to use that method as I did with aircraft campaign builds.

My reasoning is simply that the vast majority of builders don't visit campaign threads unless they have a active build or just finished one in that campaign. Hence, a great deal of excellent builds are never seen.

So moving forward, my next update to the Porsche 956 build will follow that format, and I'm going to duplicate the current update as the start to my build.

Joel
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 06:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Gabriel,
WoW !! You're the master of 2K clear finishes for sure.



Joel, I have to confess that I was lucky. I am amazed myself with the result - it looks like covered in glass! It's a shame I will cover it all in black, isn't?

I forgot to mention in my last post the brand of 2K I've used:


Update: I've bet on the wrong horse and I won!
The metallic colors will never cease to amaze me!

I started painting the other sub-assemblies of the vehicle just to speed-up completion and I chose to spray the floor pan, just to have it ready at hand when the need for it will call. My initial intention was to apply some sort of silver on the main shield, as most of the original series was finished in this color. So, as per my "ritual", I applied first Krylon Gloss Black enamel. For the "silver" I decided to use Krylon Chrome but I thought it's going to be too glossy and I diluted it in the same mixing cup I had previously reduced the gloss black, which still had some remnants of paint. My mental calculus was: "gloss black + chrome = dark polished aluminum or gunmetal". In the airbrush cup it was looking pretty much like dark aluminum, but thru the airbrush nozzle went out something completely different: the best "white matte aluminum" I have ever achieved! :



There is a Romanian dictum that translates largely something like: "It is safe to be stupid if you're lucky!" I guess I fit the description perfectly. Of course, I have preserved the "recipe" for further use

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 06:37 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The chassis pan looks perfect. As for your Romanian saying, My mother parents were born there, so I'm at least 25% Romanian.Go figure.

Joel
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 06:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text


After discussing my idea with Gabriel of doing a full build blog in the Car forum and just making a short post here about the new update with a few pictures, I've decided to use that method as I did with aircraft campaign builds.

My reasoning is simply that the vast majority of builders don't visit campaign threads unless they have a active build or just finished one in that campaign. Hence, a great deal of excellent builds are never seen.

So moving forward, my next update to the Porsche 956 build will follow that format, and I'm going to duplicate the current update as the start to my build.

Joel



Who the hell is Gabriel?!

It makes perfect logical sense after all to have all the posts and replies in a single thread, but please do not forget the GB

I will follow both, nonetheless.

Cheers!
Gabriel
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 07:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Gabriel,
The chassis pan looks perfect. As for your Romanian saying, My mother parents were born there, so I'm at least 25% Romanian.Go figure.



Thanks, Joel The shield still has some "floating grit" on the surface, but I have discovered that you don't even need to sand that one - just a light buffing with a cotton cloth does the job!

Haha! That's a funny one! It takes two of us to make three quarters of a Romanian, because, strictly on bloodline, am only 50% myself That's why is so hard to be a Romanian!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 09:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Gabriel,
The chassis pan looks perfect. As for your Romanian saying, My mother parents were born there, so I'm at least 25% Romanian.Go figure.



Thanks, Joel The shield still has some "floating grit" on the surface, but I have discovered that you don't even need to sand that one - just a light buffing with a cotton cloth does the job!

Haha! That's a funny one! It takes two of us to make three quarters of a Romanian, because, strictly on bloodline, am only 50% myself That's why is so hard to be a Romanian!

Cheers!
Gabriel




Gabriel,
my secret weapon has always been a old cotton T shirt that's no longer worthy of being a T shirt. a light buffing always takes off a lot of the surface grit.

My Grandparents would be proud of both of us.


Joel
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 03:07 PM UTC
Hi, guys!

UPDATE

I printed my own carbon fiber decals, cut the templates and applied them:


Everything went fine and I have achieved the effect I wanted to:


... but I had two mistakes there. First, I have used the same template for upper and lower half of the spoiler and I didn't get the "V" or mirrored pattern. The second one regards the size of the fiber: obviously way too big for the scale!

With the lesson learnt, I went back to the drawing board, re-printed the decals and here I am:


.

Much, much better!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 01:31 AM UTC
Gabriel
Your home made CF decals in both cases came out perfect. Application wise, the 2nd one looks more in scale.

And see, you did go back to fix an issue rather then just moving on, as almost no one would have even noticed the scale issue.

Joel
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Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2018 - 10:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel
Your home made CF decals in both cases came out perfect. Application wise, the 2nd one looks more in scale.

And see, you did go back to fix an issue rather then just moving on, as almost no one would have even noticed the scale issue.

Joel



Well, I know what you mean. But my answer here is yes and no.

On the detached piece it looks good enough from the firs try, but when attached to the whole assembly, the size of the fiber would have popped out big time. It would have had the same width like a cowboy's buckle belt
Besides, when I printed the pattern, I printed the whole A4 sheet so I said I better waste another five minutes to scale down the entire pattern to save countless minutes in the following builds. Perhaps if I do only inserts or textile patterns on the seats, a whole sheet is a 5-6 models reserve.

Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 - 04:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Gabriel
Your home made CF decals in both cases came out perfect. Application wise, the 2nd one looks more in scale.

And see, you did go back to fix an issue rather then just moving on, as almost no one would have even noticed the scale issue.

Joel



Well, I know what you mean. But my answer here is yes and no.

On the detached piece it looks good enough from the firs try, but when attached to the whole assembly, the size of the fiber would have popped out big time. It would have had the same width like a cowboy's buckle belt
Besides, when I printed the pattern, I printed the whole A4 sheet so I said I better waste another five minutes to scale down the entire pattern to save countless minutes in the following builds. Perhaps if I do only inserts or textile patterns on the seats, a whole sheet is a 5-6 models reserve.

Gabriel




Gabriel,
I'm thinking about trying to print some decals myself, including CF ones. All I have is regular HP InkJet printer. Might start googling decal printing, and see what I can come up with.

Joel
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Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 - 02:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Gabriel,
I'm thinking about trying to print some decals myself, including CF ones. All I have is regular HP InkJet printer. Might start googling decal printing, and see what I can come up with.



There are a few very good YT demos, and Will Pattison has a very good one, if you can stand his ranting. The reason why I just bought my laser printer is because I failed miserably the attempt to print my decals with my jet printer(s). Not only that the ink is washable, but the consistency of decal paper is somewhat jelly like and it stretches to some extent. The best use I ever found for white decal paper was white piping for auto models. The Micro Sol literally "melts" it down and no thickness to speak of remains - they really look "painted on" after clear coating. But please do't look at my experience as being the definitive one - I gave up too early - I've seen other guys that achieved good results - most likely it was my lack of patience and practical knowledge.

Talking about practical knowledge: even after more than a model completed, I still am prone to self-inflicted disasters like the following one:

UPDATE: ups and downs
The etching of the surface of the plastic during stripping was quite bad, as you can see on this underside of the engine compartment cover:


That side it's going to be invisible anyhow, but not the top. I sanded the top with 600 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 Tamiya sanding sponge. finally I applied a hefty coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200, thinned just enough to pass thru my a/b at 20 psi. The intention here was to use Mr. Surfacer as filler rather than primer. It went on smooth and after some more sanding with 2000 grit, the surface is almost restored completely. (The picture shows the part before the sanding of the primer).
.
I prepared the body again by sanding slightly the entire surface with 3000 grit sponge, getting rid of all imperfections in the process:


I masked off the areas over which I intended to lay CF decals later:


And these were the ups. The downs came after:
No the best paint job ever, but I had worst ones Again, my last coat failed - after the second coat, my paint job was looking much more uniform, although not as glossy as this one:



The drama starts only here: I delayed unintentionally the removal of the masks and I pulled off the paint because it was almost dry and the adhesion over 2K very poor:


On the other side is slightly better, but still bad:


What to do now?...
Well, my best guess is that the situation actually is better than it looks. Based on my previous tests, TCP paint sands pretty well and easy. If I manage to taper down smoothly the ripped off edges, I can spray easily the running boards with the same black paint and that is that. The only question mark is if the adhesion of the paint over 2K is good enough to allow me that or it's just going to peel off... to be seen after 48 hrs - I need a well cured paint if I want a good sanding!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, November 29, 2018 - 04:12 AM UTC
Gabriel,
I'm totally confused. Where did the gloss black paint job come from? Is that the base under the Copper or another build?

Joel
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Posted: Thursday, November 29, 2018 - 12:56 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Gabriel,
I'm totally confused. Where did the gloss black paint job come from? Is that the base under the Copper or another build?

Joel



Haha! Joel, that is a good example of confusion a GB can generate. I posted in the warm-up stage of the campaign my color tests of TCP 755 Carbon Flash Black over different finishes and the one over copper looked best - you even have agreed with me at that point. Being a pearlescent color, it benefits massively from a metallic undercoat. The idea with CF decals came only latter and the bare copper spots are in fact support for future decals. The car never intended to be copper, it always intended to be black! The fact that threw you into confusion even deeper it was perhaps my coat of 2K. Well, that it was a "on job experiment", just to see how a eventual future auburn metallic (derivated from the same copper) car will look like.
I know, It all was only partly explained and you won't be the first one to doubt my intelligence after sacrificing that copper finish. Oh, well - at least I know I can achieve it almost at will

UPDATE - patching and stitching
I know I have announced a 48 hrs drying / curing time before any sanding, but then occured to me that TCP paints are acetone based and they should be dry already after 24 hrs. I tested sanding and it worked like a charm. I went on over the entire surface, insisting over the problematic spots, especially over the jagged edges of the teared away areas. Then I sprayed TCP 755 again, to patch the "wounds". I have realized since yesterday already what my mistakes were (I am still new to TCP paints) and the spraying over running boards went impeccable this time. Just see how glossy and smooth they are, straight from the airbrush!


The under-shield of the car was sprayed with Alclad Aqua Gloss - I didn't wanted it to glossy but I rather wanted to preserve that silver aluminum matte effect achieved by mistake a couple days ago. I have masked the areas to remain silver with Tamiya masking tape and sprayed everything else with Rust-oleum satin black, one of my all-time favorite paints (for that kind of job that is). Believe me or not, it was only now that I realized that the two funnels are actually part of the attack fender / diffuser. I kept them silver, against better judgement, of course, just to fool around with some more CF, this time over silver undercoat (to follow):


Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, November 30, 2018 - 02:52 AM UTC
Gabriel,
You're really confusing a very old modeler at the ripe old age of 71 So you sacrificed the Copper paint job and are now going with the Black Metallic over the Copper base?

Sometimes I think that Henry Ford had the best idea with his Model T that he offered it in any color you wanted as long as it was Matt Black

Joel
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Posted: Friday, November 30, 2018 - 03:07 PM UTC
Joel, I apologize for the confusion. The copper paint was sacrificial from the good beginning - just an undercoat to enhance the pearlescent effect of TCP-755 paint. It just went so smooth that anyone believed is the final coat

Here my tests before even opening the sprue bags:




I'm not sure how good can be seen on your screen, but the copper helps a lot with the "carbon flash" graphite grease effect

Actually I don't like solid black too much on auto modeling (except for classic cars and Henry's Fords, of course), but I used TCP-755 on another build for a couple of small sub-assemblies and I found it very interesting. Coincidentally, when doing my research on 959 I run into a video of a very black Porsche which I liked. But even so, due to the scale effect, I couldn't deal too well with the idea of an all-black Porsche (or any other car) so I considered that it will be better to keep some copper in full sight - hence the copper rims and copper weave CF! (I know, I have a twisted mind! )
Now back to build!

UPDATE - less is less
I had big plans for this evening, but it wasn't to be! First off, I have to work tomorrow and I had to cut the bench time short.
Then this:

Well, no big deal, but I still need to wait for putty to dry and then sand and prime.

... an then that:

The back of the seats have the worst kind of ejector pin marks - the slanted ones, half embedded, half extruded. The back of the seats will be (me looking for trouble again!) CF so I will need a very nice surface! Sand and fill, then wait overnight!

The only little thing that was in tonight's plan that I managed to complete it it was the two CF intake funnels (bronze weave this time):


I wished I could say as per modeler's maxim "Less is more," but, in my case, lees is less indeed!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 01:42 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Thanks for jogging my retarded memory into actually remembering the start of your build with the spoon test. The Back over the various base colors while hard for me to see what you're seeing, does indeed look like the black pops most with the Copper while the Bronze is a close 2nd.

You're making steady progress no matter how small some of the steps are, as the kit corrections take time.

I'm going to make a small update post today in the forum on the Porsche, as it's really is the epidemy of carelessness and stupidity

Joel
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 04:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
Thanks for jogging my retarded memory into actually remembering the start of your build with the spoon test. The Back over the various base colors while hard for me to see what you're seeing, does indeed look like the black pops most with the Copper while the Bronze is a close 2nd.



No worries, Joel, I know I posted the spoon experiment well ahead of its time and, naturally, you lost connection. Yes, it's hard to see indeed on the screen, because it is all about under-shine. TCP - 755 over black remains "dead" glossy black; over silver has the best under-shine but gets a grayish cold tinge; over gold (bronze) steers a little towards green; over copper has a richer, warmer tone and a less cold shadow contrast (all the above under 5500K light).

UPDATE - Rise and shine!
With all the body sanded and patches fixed, I went on to apply the decals. And, yes, it is all complicated as it looks, over three grilles at three different angles over a curved surface. They drunk a lot of MicroSol but eventually conformed:


After decaling solution was dry... the moment of the truth, the moment that makes or breaks a model - the clear-coating:


I'm not sure yet if this is the last coat or not - it looks quite good - the practice carried over the copper coat paid off and there is no mistake of which I am aware of; however, close inspection is not possible yet - the body is drying in the photo tent and I don't want to raise dust fumbling too much around with the camera:


The same went for the engine cover (not pictured) and for the spoiler:


Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 09:46 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The Gloss coat looks tremendous Now that's one great shine.

Joel
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 02:12 PM UTC
Thanks, Joel!
By now the resin is hard enough to fiddle with it and I have to say that I am very pleased with the shine, but there is still place for improvement. The edges of the reflections are a little fuzzy, sign that the surface isn't yet as smooth as mirror. After another 24 hours I will deal with it. I will try and see first if I can get the mirror finish just by polishing with my Proxxon. If not, back to light sanding and 2K!

UPDATE - which grey is Porsche grey?
I have google it up (again) for 959 interiors and here are my finds:
1. All black : It looks good, but it doesn't work with my black exterior.
2. Reddish brown : probably best suited for my intention to add some CF inserts inside, but the simple thought of a brown dash with silver inserts make me cringe...
3. Three tone Komfort interior: this one looks the best, but doesn't "bundle up" with my CF...
Also my stocks are completely devoid of acrylic grey, except for RLM02 and RLM66. I called my old friend Liquitex to help me out. I have mixed a dark-medium gray from Ivory black and Titanium white, but it was somewhat lacking "personality". I added then some orange, just the tiniest bit to make the color steer a little towards beige. I have sprayed the whole "bathtub" and the front seats with it. This is going to be the darkest color of the tapestry. The light gray and silver (maybe titanium gold) inserts are to be painted by hand.


I couldn't resist to have a peek at the whole assembly and I dry fit here the engine cover and the spoiler:


The whole assembly - I'm still considering to redo the runner boards with CF, as per original plan...


Cheers!
Gabriel
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 09:51 PM UTC
Cripes, I step out of the country for a week and Gabriel has painted and repainted his car seven times, fitted decals front and back, but in what should the simpler decision, can't decide what colour the interior should be!
Great looking Porsche Gabriel. I think the bronze carbon weave looks spectacular with the gloss black. You've taken this to new heights!

Meanwhile I have begun the process of applying the more than 60 decals to the 934. Should be done by the weekend and then my moment of truth, a first gloss coat.
Actually I should say building a race car is a good first way to get into car building. Those decals sure can hide a lot of small issues.

cheers
Michael