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Airfix MGB Roadster
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2018 - 07:44 AM UTC
Hi Rowan.

Great to see you join the team here and with a kit I haven't seen built up before. Following with much interest.

Also promises to be a great thread for nostalgia from the followers! For my part I learned to drive in cars at opposite ends of the spectrum. Mum had a Hillman Hunter, folding my 200 cm plus frame into that little box was an episode in itself. Dad had a 1968 Pontiac Parisienne, like driving a yacht!


Looking forward to more progress.

Cheers, D
Merlin
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2018 - 09:05 AM UTC
Hi everyone

Thanks for the interest and encouragement.

@ Richard - you were quite right to assume I wouldn't be able to resist CSM's Nieuport 17 - I made a start on that today too! I owe Edgar at CSM a build, and the Nieuport is so tasty, I got cracking at the first opportunity. As you can imagine, the two kits are like proverbial chalk and cheese in terms of detail and quality.

Sticking with the MGB, the first tasks will just be lots of filling and cleaning up. I've got the kit sat in front of me as I write, and it would be great to have a Blog with audio because you'd have just heard a "What the hell?!..." as I spotted a bunch of scratches in the interior tub that I'd missed previously.

This is a classic old kit, but I think the moulds have been through the wars over the years. It would be really interesting to compare this boxing with a '60s original.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2018 - 02:11 AM UTC
Rowan,
I'm thrilled to no end to see that you've started this build, while I still wait for the new MGB release.

Even with all it's short comings it still looks like my Treasured B.

Joel
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2018 - 02:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Neat Rowan. I've got one in the stash that I too picked up at a resale kids clothing shop. I'll have to reread this one in detail before I start.
My mom had the 1974 1/2 MG, with the rubber baby bumpers, in screaming yellow. Don't remember the tail being jacked up, but it was difficult for 20 something year old me to get in and out of. She had it repainted at some time in a proper British Racing Green. IIRC they had it hauled away on the 2000's when the mechanic told 'em it was too expensive to fix and my sister's offensive lineman sized son wouldn't fit behind the wheel.



Mark,
I always felt that the one of the reasons for the demise of the British sports car in the USA was due to the stupid rule of a min height for the bumpers. They instituted it so that when you were involved in a crash, bumper to bumper would be the result. As it stood for smaller cars their bumpers ended wedged under a full size American car's bumper. So to meet that new rule, in the early 70's they jacked up the B's. The end result was a horrible looking car that drove more like a truck in need of a new suspension. The classic knock offs were replaced with those huge lug nuts that required a wrench to be attached, then you went to work with your copper hammer to loosen them.

Of course the non-synchro 1st gear didn't help either, but you just almost never needed 1st gear from a roll. The few times I did, double clutching took care of that issue.

Joel
Merlin
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2018 - 10:06 AM UTC
Cheers Joel

I've made a start smoothing things out. Something else I notice was a rather abrupt change in the contour between the front wing and the nose of the car along a mould-seam, so I'm rounding that a bit to look more like photos of the real thing.

It's going to be fun having something totally different to turn to alongside the new Nieuport and my ongoing Luftwaffe builds. It might be a bit of a proverbial "busman's holiday", but there's nowt wrong with that.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2018 - 01:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Cheers Joel

I've made a start smoothing things out. Something else I notice was a rather abrupt change in the contour between the front wing and the nose of the car along a mould-seam, so I'm rounding that a bit to look more like photos of the real thing.

It's going to be fun having something totally different to turn to alongside the new Nieuport and my ongoing Luftwaffe builds. It might be a bit of a proverbial "busman's holiday", but there's nowt wrong with that.

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,
Just keep on making progress when you can and when you feel like it.

The 1/24 scale release from Aoshima is now scheduled for Dec. but I'm not holding my breath as it's been pushed back and back all year. While it's listed as a '68, I'll be doing the very minor changes to back date it to my beloved '67 model. And then i'll be building a min of three of them. One as it was released for the street. One as I modified my street car including my legal roll bar, and one as the final version as my street/time trial car.


Joel

Merlin
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2018 - 11:50 PM UTC
Hi Joel

I'll be looking at your 1:24 builds for tips, because they'll undoubtedly be a different league to what I can do on this!

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2018 - 03:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

I'll be looking at your 1:24 builds for tips, because they'll undoubtedly be a different league to what I can do on this!

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,
Nothing like adding a little more pressure, and the kits still haven't been released.

There is also a 1/16 scale Porsche 356 that I've been waiting for which still hasn't been released as yet. This is my other dream car ever since I saw it in the early 60's.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2018 - 11:41 PM UTC
nice start on the parts Rowan.

Lot's of clean up required for sure, but plenty of potential
Merlin
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Posted: Monday, December 10, 2018 - 09:28 AM UTC
Cheers Joel and Russell

The sure sign of a modelling bug that's bitten is when you catch yourself contemplating how best to fill sink marks on the way to work! I think a mixture of superglue and talc is on the cards for the MGB.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 10, 2018 - 10:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Cheers Joel and Russell

The sure sign of a modelling bug that's bitten is when you catch yourself contemplating how best to fill sink marks on the way to work! I think a mixture of superglue and talc is on the cards for the MGB.

All the best

Rowan




Rowan,
Yep, the bug has bitten for sure. I've never used the CCA/Talc method, but just straight CCA Gel, which works ok coupled with CCA accelerator.

Joel
Merlin
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 08:29 AM UTC
Hi Joel

The CA/talc combination is great because it's that much easier to sand - closer to the density of styrene.

I've been watching some luthiers' videos and they use a similar trick but, instead of mixing standard or thick CA and talc (OK - it's sawdust for them) ahead of applying it , they flood the area with ultra-thin CA and then apply the powder before a second dose of CA. That could be worth experimenting with.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 08:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

The CA/talc combination is great because it's that much easier to sand - closer to the density of styrene.

I've been watching some luthiers' videos and they use a similar trick but, instead of mixing standard or thick CA and talc (OK - it's sawdust for them) ahead of applying it , they flood the area with ultra-thin CA and then apply the powder before a second dose of CA. That could be worth experimenting with.

All the best

Rowan




Rowan,
I've filled small holes and seams with CCA Gel but never with Talc or Baby Powder. I think I'll play it safe, and ding up a small scrap piece of sheet, and test it out 1st.

Joel
md72
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 08:56 AM UTC
So how is the CA/talc thing supposed to work? I'm guessing you fill the gap with talc and then add the CA. IIRC when I dropped CA onto talc separate from the gap, it set almost immediately and was useless as a filler.
warreni
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 09:31 AM UTC
Hi Rowan.

If you want any reference pics just give me a yell as I have a 1963 MGB Mk1 sitting in my shed.



Cheers
Warren
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 02:30 PM UTC
No need for talc. Works fine without talc and is easy to file. Accelerator means you can attack it very quickly.
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 01:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

No need for talc. Works fine without talc and is easy to file. Accelerator means you can attack it very quickly.



Warren,
As I said, I've never tried the talc method, which I believe dries out the CCA faster. I much prefer an accelerator for that process. One thing I've found is that CCA dries and is easily filed, sanded, and feathered within an hour. But after several hours, or worse left for the next day, it's like working with a rock. So the entire process should be done after a hour's time.

Joel
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 07:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

No need for talc. Works fine without talc and is easy to file. Accelerator means you can attack it very quickly.



Warren,
As I said, I've never tried the talc method, which I believe dries out the CCA faster. I much prefer an accelerator for that process. One thing I've found is that CCA dries and is easily filed, sanded, and feathered within an hour. But after several hours, or worse left for the next day, it's like working with a rock. So the entire process should be done after a hour's time.

Joel



With an accelerator you can get at it in less than a minute. That is all I ever use except if there is a really big gap.
md72
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 07:56 AM UTC
OK, so maybe the talc thing isn't a thing. It's good to know that there's about a hour of working time before the CA turns to stone. So how do you apply the accelerator? I tried using the sprayer but that 'fogged' the rest of the plastic, now I just try to get a few drops off of the bottom of the spray tube or off of a toothpick onto the puddle of CA.
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 08:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

OK, so maybe the talc thing isn't a thing. It's good to know that there's about a hour of working time before the CA turns to stone. So how do you apply the accelerator? I tried using the sprayer but that 'fogged' the rest of the plastic, now I just try to get a few drops off of the bottom of the spray tube or off of a toothpick onto the puddle of CA.



Mark,
I also tried the pump when I 1st used it. The stuff went everywhere. Not only does it leave a residue, but you waste more of it then you use.

You get the best results by not actually letting the accelerator touch the CCA glue. I use a micro brush that's just damp from the accelerator, not soaking wet. I then wave it over and as close to the CCA glue as I can get it without touching it. Works like a charm.

Joel
md72
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 08:18 AM UTC
Thanks Joel, I might have to try that sometime soon. Right now I'm in a painting Frenzy trying to get my MTO and 3rd gen entries done.
Merlin
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 08:19 AM UTC
Hi again all

It looks like I've opened up quite a lively debate with the mention of using CA and talcum powder.

I also do use CA neat as a filler -especially on seams and rogue panel lines. It's great, but something to watch out for is that it dries harder than the styrene, so you can accidentally sand too much of the surrounding area away if you're not careful. Adding talc solves this.

Also, adding talc lets you fill larger gaps and you can also build up the filler in multiple applications to sand or carve to shape.

So - both ways are useful.

@ Mark - I'm not sure why what you did went wrong. Here's a quick step-by-step for what I do.

I use the cheapest talcum powder I can buy and standard viscosity CA. A clear spacing disk from a pack of blank CDs makes a handy mixing "palette" and I use a cocktail stick to mix the filler and apply it:



Make a small pile of talc and pour out a drop of CA next to it. Expect a working time of 2 or 3 minutes, so don't mix more than you can use in this time:



Mix a little talc thoroughly into the drop of CA. The more you add, the thicker it gets, so you can tailor how "gooey" you want the filler precisely to the job you're doing. The crucial thing is to mix it thoroughly, or else you'll hit pockets of unmixed talc when you're sanding - no real problem, but you'll need to re-fill them:



And that's it, really. As I say, you'll have a few minutes' working time with the resulting filler. I usually mix it very runny unless I'm building up a fairing or something, because it will thicken up during those few minutes.

I hope that's a help. I must say I use this all the time and I was't aware of it before joining the original Armorama - and, ironically, it was from the car modelling fraternity. Learning the trick was a game-changer for me.

All the best

Rowan
md72
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 08:21 AM UTC
OK, that's a lot different from what I remember doing. Again it's a trick for a future build.
Merlin
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 08:24 AM UTC
Hi Warren

WOW! Simply gorgeous! And it's even the right colour for Joel's dream MGB! I think it's safe to say I may well come begging some shots to help get the details looking decent.

All the best

Rowan
md72
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 - 08:36 AM UTC
Wow Warren, missed that earlier. What a dreamboat, all the way down to that license plate.