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Tamiya 1/24 scale Porsche 956
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2018 - 06:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel, you are reigning supreme in this kind of detailing. I would have got lost in the technical diagrams long before I could fit the first wire. I am chickening out at the simple thought of putting "wires" on the distribution cap for my Chrysler 300 build - but I have to bite the bullet this time. I'm really glad to have an exquisite example every time you post a build blog!

Gabriel



Gabriel,
As I told Gary, it only looks complicated, but it's really not. I just picked and choosed which lines to run where. And yes, a lot of them had to be pre drilled and the route planned, as you can see that there isn't too much empty space.

I have no doubt that you could easily do the same if not better. The Distributor on the Chrysler 300 would be very easy to do, and you could cheat it out like I did which two large holes to accommodate the wires for each cylinder head. And plan a small single hole in between for the coil wire.

What I did run into that I always forget when I'm shooting update macro pictures, is that every single issue and screw will show up that you just don't see in real life. So it's back to fix and repair once again.

Joel



Merlin
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2018 - 07:14 AM UTC
Hi Joel

That's looking seriously tasty! The ignition cables add enormously to the appearance of the engine. When you mention the "black wires" - is that done with actual black wire, or ordinary wire that you've painted black? It looks great either way, but I'm always on the lookout for new modelling materials for my arsenal.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2018 - 07:30 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

That's looking seriously tasty! The ignition cables add enormously to the appearance of the engine. When you mention the "black wires" - is that done with actual black wire, or ordinary wire that you've painted black? It looks great either way, but I'm always on the lookout for new modelling materials for my arsenal.

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,
This build is starting to take on a life of it's own. I've done way more detailing that I was originally going to. The cockpit was just so wrong I couldn't live with it. Then I thought I wire up the turbo 6, which led me to more and more plumbing. I've got a little more to do, then I'm calling it quits, and move on to the shell painting. Then when I install the front shell, I can finally finish adding those yellow electrical wires.

As for the black wires which represent black hoses. I used literally black strained wire rather then solid core. The difference is that the strained wire will form a gentile even radius, while the solid core will kink if not careful.

the black wire came from a larger dia wire with two cables of strained wire, one black & the other black.

Joel
Merlin
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2018 - 07:50 AM UTC
Hi Joel

Crossed wires, I think! LOL! The hoses aren't the wires I was referring to. It's the ignition cables that caught my eye and I realise now it's from your post a month ago - that's what comes from having two windows open the site at the same time.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2018 - 08:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

Crossed wires, I think! LOL! The hoses aren't the wires I was referring to. It's the ignition cables that caught my eye and I realise now it's from your post a month ago - that's what comes from having two windows open the site at the same time.

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,
You sure you haven't started bringing in the New Year a little early.
The ignition wires were from a 5 color set I bought from Hiro Boy that I got from HLJ. They work great but the shipping was more then the wire. I really need a local resource.

Joel
Merlin
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2018 - 10:19 PM UTC
Cheers Joel

No - sadly it's just down to the perils of having two windows open (one showing reverse order). Its often the way I've worked over the years to save to-ing and fro-ing when doing admin stuff, and old habits die hard.

I've never found a local source of really thin plain-coloured wire (metallic, yes, for jewellery etc.) other than black. It would be fantastic for small scale stuff. What would be ideal would be lead wire like the PlusModel stuff, but pre-coloured. If anyone could make that somehow...

I imagine it's 2019 now, wherever everyone is in the world, so here's wishing you all a great year ahead!

All the best

Rowan
rdt1953
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Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2019 - 12:34 AM UTC
Joel -
Still keeping my eye on you - looks great as expected. RC 166 kit still calls to me from my bench but the 1/1 scale motorcycle work is on a roll and I hate to divert my attention from it .
Happy New Year to you and yours and all the Kitmaker family as well !

Cheers - Richard
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2019 - 02:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Cheers Joel

No - sadly it's just down to the perils of having two windows open (one showing reverse order). Its often the way I've worked over the years to save to-ing and fro-ing when doing admin stuff, and old habits die hard.

I've never found a local source of really thin plain-coloured wire (metallic, yes, for jewellery etc.) other than black. It would be fantastic for small scale stuff. What would be ideal would be lead wire like the PlusModel stuff, but pre-coloured. If anyone could make that somehow...

I imagine it's 2019 now, wherever everyone is in the world, so here's wishing you all a great year ahead!

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,
Years ago I bought the 3 sizes of round lead wire from UMM-USA, and they work great, but the smaller diameter wire bends and kinks very easily, so much so that I prefer Copper wire or more recently craft wire that I had to paint when it came to aircraft ignition wires.

When I made the move to cars, detailing wires, cables, hoses, etc, are detailing parts that many AM companies/guys make. Checkout Detail Master. While it's a USA based company, I'm sure that the major modeling online retailers you deal with carry their parts. I've started to switch over to their products on a need to have now basis.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2019 - 02:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel -
Still keeping my eye on you - looks great as expected. RC 166 kit still calls to me from my bench but the 1/1 scale motorcycle work is on a roll and I hate to divert my attention from it .
Happy New Year to you and yours and all the Kitmaker family as well !

Cheers - Richard



Richard,
So great to hear from you again. And certainly a Happy New Year's to my NJ buddy.

Your devotion to the completing the restoration of your bike should have your full attention. At this point it's truly the love of your life, and the realization of a life long dream come true. When the bike is done, or just to cold to work on this winter, then start the RC 166 by all means, as it will be an amazing journey to follow with your advanced skills.

And thanks for still checking out my Porsche 956 build. I really appreciate it.

Joel
Merlin
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Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2019 - 09:48 AM UTC
Hi Joel

I love lead wire - but, as you say, the finest grades can kink easily. As with every material, there's a compromise, and with lead wire that softness is its strength in certain applications. I always roll and straighten it before use, and it's my go-to solution for many model wiring problems.

The Scientific Wire Company are a great source for materials on this side of The Pond, but they don't have an equivalent of PlusModels' lead wire.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 03:39 AM UTC
Finally, I've made enough progress for a short update. With the engine compartment basically completed until the rear cockpit bulkhead is installed, and the remaining sub assemblies like the dash, shift linkage, and seat still to be worked on, I've turned my attention to the most important and prominent part of the build: the body shell.

My plan from day 1 was to display the 956 in it's case or at a contest with the rear deck off, so that the engine/transmission/suspension was visible. So while the two major sections comprise the shell, they'll be taped together only as needed, but always kept as two separate parts.

The front deck/cockpit is all one piece, and just needed some minor mold lines removed. I primed the front deck with Mr. Hobby 1,000 Primer/Sealer thinned 1:1 with Mr. Color Leveling thinner 400. Once dry I air brushed at coat of Tamiya Nato Black, which is more a Gray/Black to simulate the color of the interior of the shell, thinned with Tamiya Yellow cap @ a 2:3 ratio. While I'm certain that I'll have to repaint it after the exterior is done, it's a lot easy to do a major touch up then a full coat of paint.





The rear deck is comprised of two sections. And while the bottom of the rear clip fit fairly well, it wasn't a smooth, perfect fit when I dry fitted the two parts. Also after looking at how the bottom of the rear deck looked with both pcs joined, I decided that I needed to prime and paint both surfaces prior to gluing them, as there was just no way I could air brush between them once they were glued together.



Then I glued the two sections together, and while the fit was pretty good, it needed some sanding and a coat of Tamiya Grey Putty. I also noticed that I totally missed the 3 rather large injection marks at the front, so I puttied, and sanded them as well.







I then primed the top of the rear deck and the injection mark repairs.





While I was what turned out to be a little to rough handling for the rear joint seam I did hear a few crack noises, but didn't think anything of it. Turns out that I damaged the joint line, and some putty from flexing popped out, resulting in these areas to be repaired and reprimed.



As of today, I've repaired all those issues with a liberal doze of Tamiya Extra thin and a smooth coat of Tamiya Gray Putty.

And now my friends, you're once again up to date on the Porsche 956 saga.

Joel






AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 11:14 AM UTC
Great to see you back at it Joel. I'm sorry to hear of your family problems, hopefully they will get resolved for you all very soon.

This build is travelling along really well, the primer coat looks silky smooth so I'm sure the top coats will shine!

Looking forward to further progress.

Cheers, D
Szmann
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Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 01:08 PM UTC
Great to see you on the saddle again, Joel and, as usual, a very consistent update.

Tamiya Nato Black is one of my favorite "blacks" as well. It is very easy to achieve something similar, by adding very little yellow to pure black.

Again, superb attention to detail and I must say you're getting perfectly any single coat of primer you spray If there is any imperfection on your bodywork, I just couldn't see it!
You have much improved your chances for an impeccable finish which I cannot wait for!

Gabriel
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Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 02:43 PM UTC
Joel,
Both major body parts look great under primer.

I never understood why model cars are molded in such terrible, hard to look at Coles.

Gaz
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 09:19 PM UTC
Hi Joel

Nice and smooth bodywork.


Quoted Text

I never understood why model cars are molded in such terrible, hard to look at Coles.


Monograms Duesenberg towncar takes the prize. Molded in two sick tones of green.
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, January 14, 2019 - 01:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I never understood why model cars are molded in such terrible, hard to look at Coles.


Just to add a little more to the challenge of soft plastic and crappy mouldings!


Quoted Text

Monograms Duesenberg towncar takes the prize. Molded in two sick tones of green.


Are you sure it's not an early Matchbox kit? That sounds like their style

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, January 14, 2019 - 02:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great to see you back at it Joel. I'm sorry to hear of your family problems, hopefully they will get resolved for you all very soon.

This build is travelling along really well, the primer coat looks silky smooth so I'm sure the top coats will shine!

Looking forward to further progress.

Cheers, D




D,
Believe me, it's great to find some time to get back to the bench and this build. Really thrilled to have you along for the journey.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, January 14, 2019 - 03:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great to see you on the saddle again, Joel and, as usual, a very consistent update.

Tamiya Nato Black is one of my favorite "blacks" as well. It is very easy to achieve something similar, by adding very little yellow to pure black.

Again, superb attention to detail and I must say you're getting perfectly any single coat of primer you spray If there is any imperfection on your bodywork, I just couldn't see it!
You have much improved your chances for an impeccable finish which I cannot wait for!

Gabriel




Gabriel,

Thanks my friend for the thumbs up once again. It's always much appreciated. I can always count on you for a very careful and honest assessment of the I just posted It's what I need to stay on course, and not take the easy way out as I'm famous for. Just ask my wife if you doubt that for min.

Like you, I've spent way more time on primers the last few years then most builders, trying to find what works with what. I'm now firmly convinced that when the color coats are lacquer, the primer has to be lacquer as well, even with mist coats. I can get away with Mig primers but it doesn't always work 100%. I love both the Black and light Gray Mr. Hobby primers, but I still prefer the Tamiya Gray primer as a filler so I don't need to have more then one # of the Mr. Hobby primer, as I've settled on #1,500 thinned 1:1 with their #400 Thinner/Leveler.

I'm going to test out both Yellow and light Gray with Tamiya flat black so I can eliminate one more different color of Tamiya paint from my paint racks.

Joel
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Posted: Monday, January 14, 2019 - 03:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel,
Both major body parts look great under primer.

I never understood why model cars are molded in such terrible, hard to look at Coles.

Gaz




Gary,

Thanks for checking out my progress to date, it's much appreciated.

I completely agree with you, the absurd colors that some of the cars are molded in makes no sense. In this case Tamiya picked that horrible Yellow so that the base color of the Newman Porsche doesn't have to be painted. But for the rest of us whose not doing that scheme, it's just more work.



Joel
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Posted: Monday, January 14, 2019 - 03:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

Nice and smooth bodywork.


Quoted Text

I never understood why model cars are molded in such terrible, hard to look at Coles.


Monograms Duesenberg towncar takes the prize. Molded in two sick tones of green.



Jesper,
Thanks so much for your thumbs up. I've always valued your comments and suggestions.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2019 - 04:08 AM UTC
What time I had this week for modeling, I spent in the paint booth with the Rothmans 956 Porsche. Prep work consisted of a very light wet going over with a #3000 Tamiya sponge just to smooth out the already pretty smooth primer.

Now it was time for the Gravity #GC102 White color coat. The Gravity paints are pre-thinned for air brushing which makes one life so much easier. I've settled on a flow rate of 18-20 psi. 1st coat was just a tack coat. Then 3 wet layers evenly applied, and into the drying bin.

Next session I masked the white for the dark Blue color, and it took nearly 4 hours!! the little Blue trim around the headlights were a real bear. the demarcation line between the dark Blue sides and the White topside runs right down the middle of the curve between the two. So I really burned in the Tamiya tape the best I could.

The following day I air brushed on Gravity #GC 164 Rothmans Blue. Same exact air brush settings and paint procedures, but there still was a little leakage/over spray.

I'm not really worried about it as a light rubbing with a #3000 wet sponge will knock down the little ridges, and the Gold/Red decal stripes will cover the demarcation line. Well, that's the plan anyway.

Here's how the two body shells looked straight from the paint drying box. I did notice a few areas on the sides of the top air scoops that I need to repaint, as I either missed those spots, or didn't apply enough paint during the passes. Other then those small issues, the two tone paint scheme really looks quite nice, and it's certainly smooth with no Orange Peel that I've found so far.

Joel







And one with the wing. It's blue on the top, and White on the bottom.




Merlin
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2019 - 09:57 AM UTC
Hi Joel

Nice job! I'm glad to see you got a chance get some modelling done amid everything that's going on.

I've never come across Gravity Colors before (I know - I spend too much of my time building aircraft kits! LOL!) - and my naive web search immediately landed me smack in the middle of a serious fall-out between the US and European companies.

I'm guessing you're using the US brand (in view of the muck flying around, I'm wary of saying "version")? Whichever it is, it looks good. Looking at the FAQs on the websites, it's really confusing for potential customers either side of The Pond - a bit of a mess, to be honest. It's sad when bust-ups like this happen.

All the best

Rowan
Szmann
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2019 - 10:40 AM UTC
Joel, very high standard of painting there!

The white is very neat - it makes me jealous - because I've spoiled virtually all my attempts to a impeccable white finish on large surfaces - I even launched a challenge to myself for a couple white builds and I bought specially Plymouth Fury from AMT to try the antique white on it.

Very little blue went under the masking and the four hours you spent paid out handsomely.

So, yeah! - waiting for the next update!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2019 - 12:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

Nice job! I'm glad to see you got a chance get some modelling done amid everything that's going on.

I've never come across Gravity Colors before (I know - I spend too much of my time building aircraft kits! LOL!) - and my naive web search immediately landed me smack in the middle of a serious fall-out between the US and European companies.

I'm guessing you're using the US brand (in view of the muck flying around, I'm wary of saying "version")? Whichever it is, it looks good. Looking at the FAQs on the websites, it's really confusing for potential customers either side of The Pond - a bit of a mess, to be honest. It's sad when bust-ups like this happen.

All the best

Rowan




Rowan,
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my 956 to date. Needless to say I'm thrilled that you like what you see.

As for Gravity Colors, it's a long story with more then a twist here and there. There's threads that run for pages on various sites. Unfortunately, most of them is about the USA branch not filling orders.

I started off with Zero paints and loved them. The problem was that there is only one online retailer in the USA that carries them, as that's how Zero works. the Dealer is always out of stock of way more then just paints. So I reached out to their home office and asked and explained the out of stock issue. I was told that I had to order from him and not from another country. So my next step was Gravity paints.

Seems that the USA store, located in Florida and the home office located in Spain were having major issues. Still he was taking orders and shipping. His one helper quit and he ran the show solo. It's also a part time job that he was hoping to make a full time business. Every once in a while he would stop taking orders so he could catch up on existing orders. Never saw that from a online retailer. So I accepted the wait for my order to be filled when he started to take additional orders. Trouble was he never shipped. Email after email was never answered, so I filed a complaint with Pay Pal, and he never answered them either. But Pay Pal refunded my money. The real issue is that almost no one got their orders after months of waiting. Eventually there were posts of receiving their order with an extra bottle or two of paint as a thank you.

His issues with Spain/corp home site, never was resolved, and eventually Spain changed their name as per the courts. I heard how good they were about shipping world wide, so I emailed them, got a reply in 24 hrs, and they pride themselves on superior custom service. So I sent in a test order. They not only shipped the next day, but I got my DHL order in 3 days, and that was from Spain. Every order comes in 3 days, and their customer service people answer the phones 24/7 in just a few min.

I've recommended them to everyone who asks. One of my Australian builder buddies ordered from them, and he to got his order but it took 4 days. Never seen any online retailer service and ship like they do. And I've never had an out of stock.


Joel
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2019 - 12:43 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel, very high standard of painting there!

The white is very neat - it makes me jealous - because I've spoiled virtually all my attempts to a impeccable white finish on large surfaces - I even launched a challenge to myself for a couple white builds and I bought specially Plymouth Fury from AMT to try the antique white on it.

Very little blue went under the masking and the four hours you spent paid out handsomely.

So, yeah! - waiting for the next update!

Cheers!
Gabriel



Gabriel,
Thanks buddy for always being in my corner. It's much appreciated.

the little bit of run under and the small lip were already taken care of with a piece of wet #3000 Tamiya sponge. The decals will make it perfect. At least I sure hope so.

You're way to good of a painter to be having issues with white. it's no different then any other color. If you can do those metallic finishes, any solid color should be a breeze for you.

The only issue I can think of is that you're not thinning your paint enough. The Gravity and Zero paints are almost like water, so even light coats, then even wet coats build up perfectly. Just don't stop your pass. Another full pass is better then trying to do small areas that need a little more paint. Betcha your Fury turns out perfectly.


Joel