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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
What Primers for Vallejo Air and Vallejo?
Scarred
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 08:40 PM UTC

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Wash the parts. Let them dry. Apply Stynylrez in few thin layers until full coverage. Let it dry for a day. Fully sandable. Never look back at another primer.



Correct, sprues can be washed simply with detergent. A day for curing for sanding also sounds right.

Another thing I would recommend for the primer is placing 1-2 ball bearings in. It is a primer and is slightly more viscous. It still needs to be homogenized as thoroughly as possible and ball bearings work well.




Well, here's the problem-- for the three models I have in mind, they are already built (I generally build armor to a 90% state before I paint-- it's just something I do-- I'd prefer not to "wash" them at this point-- I doubt I'd ever get all the water out. So I guess I'll just take a chance on my standard Tamiya paint mixed with a little lacquer thinner as primer. I might try one of them with the Stylenre just to see what happens. Thanks to all of you who replied to my query, I really appreciate it, and I'm looking forward to trying a new paint line (from my perspective it's new!).
VR,
Russ



If I've done a lot of sanding during the build prior to painting I'll give it a quick clean. I'll hit it with IPA from a spray bottle or windex and use a fan brush or mascara brush to gently scrub it down then a quick rinse with windex or IPA then hit it with air from my air brush to dry it. I'll then set it in my paint booth with a fan going to dry it. A couple of hours it will be dry. The trick is to do this quickly and not saturated the model so the cleaner doesn't soak into cracks, putty and to have air moving to evaporate everything. Windex and IPA evaporate fast with no residue.

When I was researching stynylrez I found these two videos that convinced me to try it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDm3BhnTQ5A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSDtFbWRB-o
KruppCake
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 06:29 PM UTC

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Wash the parts. Let them dry. Apply Stynylrez in few thin layers until full coverage. Let it dry for a day. Fully sandable. Never look back at another primer.



Correct, sprues can be washed simply with detergent. A day for curing for sanding also sounds right.

Another thing I would recommend for the primer is placing 1-2 ball bearings in. It is a primer and is slightly more viscous. It still needs to be homogenized as thoroughly as possible and ball bearings work well.




Well, here's the problem-- for the three models I have in mind, they are already built (I generally build armor to a 90% state before I paint-- it's just something I do-- I'd prefer not to "wash" them at this point-- I doubt I'd ever get all the water out. So I guess I'll just take a chance on my standard Tamiya paint mixed with a little lacquer thinner as primer. I might try one of them with the Stylenre just to see what happens. Thanks to all of you who replied to my query, I really appreciate it, and I'm looking forward to trying a new paint line (from my perspective it's new!).
VR,
Russ



It shouldnít really be a problem tomprime unwashed models. I donít think it will affect the paint that much. On the other hand, Iíve washed several completed models before painting just to get all the fingerprints and hand oil off.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 05:27 PM UTC

Quoted Text


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Wash the parts. Let them dry. Apply Stynylrez in few thin layers until full coverage. Let it dry for a day. Fully sandable. Never look back at another primer.



Correct, sprues can be washed simply with detergent. A day for curing for sanding also sounds right.

Another thing I would recommend for the primer is placing 1-2 ball bearings in. It is a primer and is slightly more viscous. It still needs to be homogenized as thoroughly as possible and ball bearings work well.




Well, here's the problem-- for the three models I have in mind, they are already built (I generally build armor to a 90% state before I paint-- it's just something I do-- I'd prefer not to "wash" them at this point-- I doubt I'd ever get all the water out. So I guess I'll just take a chance on my standard Tamiya paint mixed with a little lacquer thinner as primer. I might try one of them with the Stylenre just to see what happens. Thanks to all of you who replied to my query, I really appreciate it, and I'm looking forward to trying a new paint line (from my perspective it's new!).
VR,
Russ
KruppCake
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 11:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Wash the parts. Let them dry. Apply Stynylrez in few thin layers until full coverage. Let it dry for a day. Fully sandable. Never look back at another primer.



Correct, sprues can be washed simply with detergent. A day for curing for sanding also sounds right.

Another thing I would recommend for the primer is placing 1-2 ball bearings in. It is a primer and is slightly more viscous. It still needs to be homogenized as thoroughly as possible and ball bearings work well.
Robbd01
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 10:51 AM UTC
This is very interesting. I have never heard of Stynylrez. Plus I am surprised it is from Badger (I own a few of their AB's). I prefer the rattle can primers (Tamiya, Gunze..) for one reason, I don't have to clean my AB after use. I am tempted to try this stuff out. I have other non-rattle can primers stashed in the paint stash (in this hobby there is a stash for everything) but again I just got lazy and I can spray everything with a rattle can and not have to deal with AB cleanup.

Cheers


Doodeck
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 10:17 AM UTC
Wash the parts. Let them dry. Apply Stynylrez in few thin layers until full coverage. Let it dry for a day. Fully sandable. Never look back at another primer.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 09:52 AM UTC
Ok, so I went to my LHS and bought a bottle of tan Stylynlrez primer, and a larger bottle of Vallejo thinner (already had bottles of AB thinneró two older ones that are milky colored, and one thatís clear, plus a small bottle of flow enhancer). So I guess Iím all set- one last question for you alló I used to wash my model spruced right out of the box. But I havenít done that for several years, as I found the lacquer and enamel based paints and primers will coat well without washing (I mostly use lacquer thinner for thinning my AB paints, even enamels and oils). So, is there any plastic prep that needs to be done with Stynlrez? By the wayó what kind of name is that?😆?? And thanks all for your recommendations and help.
VR, Russ
KruppCake
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 05:09 AM UTC

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Stynylrez 100%. Never had any issues and you can sand it down to a feathered edge when cured. Rock solid with a long cute time. Just donít thin with anything.




Ok, so now I'm concerned about cure times. How long do you consider "cured" with primers before applying Vallejo? Normally using enamel or lacquer based paints, I consider the primer cured in about two to three hours. But it sounds like the primers you guys are referring to might take a little longer-- 24-48 hours? Is this because these primers are enamel based and the Vallejo is an Acrylic? I've been watching a few YouTube videos, but I don't get any sense of the dry times in them.
VR, Russ



You can touch and paint over the primer after 5-10 minutes. Iíd wait several hours to potentially a day to be able sand it really well, weíll enough so it can feather. Iíve done 5-7 models so far with this primer and have painted over it almost immediately after application and have never had a problem. What I do after is let the base coat and/or camo cure for a week before I start decals and any weathering, so everything is rock solid and I donít risk damaging the paint work. The primer also works well for metal barrels and PE, but I prefer to lightly scuff all those with 800 grit sanding sticks, wash with detergent, then prime.

Also, Vallejo and stynylrez primers are all acrylic. Thereís no solvent smell to them.
KruppCake
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 05:02 AM UTC

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When using the Vallejo I would suggest you add their flow improver. I am fairly new to air brushing but I would get so much tip dry I almost gave up on that brand without it. I know that wasn't your question but thought I would mention it.



In my experience, the flow improver can start doing funny things with the paint if you use it for things like base coating or other surfaces. It does work well if you want to turn down the pressure and do tight camo patterns. For larger surfaces it can also affect the integrity of the paint and leave it more prone to scratching because it doesnít cure the same way.

Airbrush thinner (Vallejo for Vallejo paints) works really well so you can avoid dry tip. I prefer the pints thinner than usual so thereís more control rather than worrying about orange peel or swamping surfaces.
drewgimpy
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 04:51 AM UTC
When using the Vallejo I would suggest you add their flow improver. I am fairly new to air brushing but I would get so much tip dry I almost gave up on that brand without it. I know that wasn't your question but thought I would mention it.
Scarred
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 04:32 AM UTC
Another vote for stynylrez/AMMO of Mig One Shot. Right from the bottle no thinning and levels out with no issues. Now if they'd come out with an acrylic line of paint that was as trouble free and easy to use.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 04:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Stynylrez 100%. Never had any issues and you can sand it down to a feathered edge when cured. Rock solid with a long cute time. Just donít thin with anything.




Ok, so now I'm concerned about cure times. How long do you consider "cured" with primers before applying Vallejo? Normally using enamel or lacquer based paints, I consider the primer cured in about two to three hours. But it sounds like the primers you guys are referring to might take a little longer-- 24-48 hours? Is this because these primers are enamel based and the Vallejo is an Acrylic? I've been watching a few YouTube videos, but I don't get any sense of the dry times in them.
VR, Russ
KruppCake
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 01:41 AM UTC

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+1 for Stylnrez. I tried it because we were out of my go to brand at the store, and I was hooked. My new go to - also, the AMMO of Mig is Stylnrez labeled for them (bit of trivia I used to see the practice all the time when I worked at Norton company, 3M Abrasives are made by Norton and labeled for 3M).



Makes sense about the rebranding. Why fix something that works?
white4doc
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Posted: Saturday, March 16, 2019 - 01:13 AM UTC
+1 for Stylnrez. I tried it because we were out of my go to brand at the store, and I was hooked. My new go to - also, the AMMO of Mig is Stylnrez labeled for them (bit of trivia I used to see the practice all the time when I worked at Norton company, 3M Abrasives are made by Norton and labeled for 3M).
KruppCake
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 03:45 PM UTC
Stynylrez 100%. Never had any issues and you can sand it down to a feathered edge when cured. Rock solid with a long cute time. Just donít thin with anything.
Robbd01
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 12:19 PM UTC

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I generally use Tamiya Extra Fine or Mr Surfacer 1200 as a primer,really effective.No problems spraying Vallejo over it.




Ditto - pretty much on any brand of paint I use.

Cheers



retiredyank
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 11:20 AM UTC
I have tried a few Vallejo primers, over bare plastic. Red oxide had a nice bite, but black and grey lifted even after 36 hours. I sprayed these on the same sheet stock, so it was controlled.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 11:12 AM UTC
OK-- it looks like it will work over Lacquer and enamel primers (and Tamiya Acrylics). Next question-- How durable is it over these primers? Has anyone used the Vallejo primer over bare plastic, if so, how durable is that? Sorry for the questions-- its a new medium for me, and I don't want to screw up a model just for a paint issue. I tend to super detail (in 1/72 armor this can be intimidating) and I don't want to have to strip off paint.
VR, Russ
Tojo72
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 09:18 AM UTC
I generally use Tamiya Extra Fine or Mr Surfacer 1200 as a primer,really effective.No problems spraying Vallejo over it.
retiredyank
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 08:16 AM UTC
So long as you let the primer cure, before laying down another coat you can use anything you like. I have used AK, Stynylrez, MM lacquer and Vallejo(don't recommend this). Almost forgot, an old bottle of Floquil.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 07:45 AM UTC
I'm a dyed in the wool Enamels and Lacquer person. My favorite paint is Gunze Mr. Color, followed by Tamiya Acrylic Lacquer, followed by Model Master. But on a whim, while walking through my local Hobby Lobby, I found some Vallejo Air and a package of US Army OD colors on sale, and bought them. I have some unpainted 1/72 scale armor I want to get painted. My questions are:
1) What kind of primer should I use for Vallejo Air and Vallejo Acrylic colors?
2) Can I use my standard Tamiya colors, or my Model Master Enamel colors as a primer coat? (In this case I'd go with black or gray as a primer--are they ok as a base for Vallejo?).
I normally don't use a specially prepared "primer"-- I generally just go with a first coat of a compatible paint when I use Lacquers or enamels-- and sometimes don't use a primer at all. I don't think I can do that with these Vallejo paints, can I?
VR, Russ