Basically this is down to airbrush technique. There are two problems to overcome, one the dark
color and two the fact that, traditionally, assuming two upper surface colors, the lighter is sprayed first, the second is marked out, then sprayed over the first. To achieve the pre-shading affect on the dark
colors the paint must be sprayed thinly. By spraying one color over another, the area of the second
color is much too thick too achieve the aim. So, the first step is to eliminate this double thickness. That's easy, rather than marking out for the second
color, mark out for the first. Spray that color, to the marked out pattern. You do not need to have a really tight spray pattern, as there has to be some overlap. This is desirable also because it will give another affect i.e. no pre-shading will show through where the
colors overlap, giving a different hue. The second color is sprayed; you have the first
color as a guide for the pattern, free hand or masked. Now the problem of the dark
colors, as I have already mentioned, for this to work the dark colors must be sprayed thinly. I guess this probably goes against the grain, because most
modelers would be looking for a nice even coat, with good coverage. I'm looking to get the
color on but I want a used look. If you can free hand airbrush camouflage, then you can do this. The paint needs to be thin and the pressure low. Build the paint up slowly, to cover where the black pre-shading is will require more paint, where the primer is will require less. By varying the amount of paint, in these areas you will be able to adjust the affect, lighter or darker. You will get darker paint around panels and details and lighter in the
center of panels and on high spots. This is the theory, and you can see by my Hasegawa 1/48 Hurricane (I hope), that it will work.
| This was my first attempt and I'm pleased with the results, although I think it could be a little better. One reason for this is the poor lighting in my spray booth, for this technique to be a real success you will need to see what you are doing. As I mentioned before, I think that the way to go would be first of all to use white primer, instead of
gray. This, I think would allow for slightly better contrast, and/or more control. It's easier to add than take away. In other words, as the light spots are the
gray primer showing through more than the darker areas and the darkest areas are the camouflage paint toning down the pre-shading. The affect should be easier to control, because you would need slightly more paint, to cover the lightest areas, and therefor you would have more time to stop, if you see what I mean? Secondly by lightening the
colors, to take into account the darkening affect of Klear and other varnishes and washes, the darker
colors will automatically lend themselves better to this technique.