1⁄355th Georgia infantry (Clinch Rifles) 1861
IntroductionSome people wait a whole year for a new Beaujolais to appear, others for a new version of their BMW. Luckily I donít need to wait that long since a new Latorrefigure appears more than once a year. When a new Latorre comes available Iím the first one to run down my favourite modelshop Letís start with a little bit of background information. The 5th Georgia infantry was formed in 1862 in Augusta, Georgia and was named after general Duncan L. Clinch who served in the Seminole Wars.At the battle of Murfreesboro, Chicamauga they lost more than half itís men. Finally they fought in Gettysburg. A description of the uniform by the unit commander to the governor was as followed: ę A dress coat of dark green broad cloth, with gilt rifle buttons, and trimmed with gold lace and cord on the outside seams. The cap was of the same colour with the letters C.R. surrounded with a gold wreath, light green pompon, wings of brass, army style. The fatigue dress had a dark green cloth jacket, trimmed with gold lace, green cap and black trousers Ľ.
Starting the kitOn opening the box youíll find 6 white metal pieces well packed so damage might occur during transit. You have a colourpicture on top of the box, but thatís all since there were no written instruction with my figure. I found a little information on the internet and it was thanks to the appearance on the same subject in Figure International that I could finish mine. I had no idea about the colour of the trousers and the piping. The 6 pieces are the following: the main body with the left arm and kepi casted onto it, the head, the right arm, the blade of the sabre, the scabbard and the base. I didnít used the base as I find building groundwork one of the most enjoyable things to do. A very small seam line was present on all parts but they were easily eliminated with some sanding paper and steel wool to finish. The figure was completely assembled, minus the sword of the sabre, and washed in a warm soapy water before being primed. For this I used my airbrush to spray two thin coats of Humbrol Matt White (HU34).
As always when no huge metal parts are present, I started by undercoating all flesh parts with Humbrol Pale Stone (HU121). This was brought on in two or three thin coats. When dry I mixed my basic flesh tone in oil paints : Mars Orange Reddish (Old Holland) + Titanium White (OH) + Alizarin Crimson (Winsor & Newton) + Cadmium Yellow (W&N) + a dab of Kingís Blue Light (OH). I added more Titanium White than usual, since I wanted to paint a younger looking man, a bit of a motherís child. I also kept the contrast between my shadows and highlights a little less harsh then what Iím used to. This colour was brought on in a very thin coat, without the addition of any solvent, and the extent was wiped of with a broad dry clean brush. I now added a bit of Mars Red (OH) to the hollow of the cheeks and blended it in with the surrounding flesh colour. Next I took some Indian Red (W&N), placed a little dot at the deepest of the hollow of the cheeks and the underlip and blended it in again. Now all shadow areaís were painted pure Mars Brown (OH) and again blended in. The same was done for the deep shadows, only this time I used a mix of Purple Madder Alizarin (W&N) + Madder Brown (Rembrandt). The highlights were treathend the same way only using the basic flesh colour with the addition of Titanium White and a bit of Cadmium Yellow. More Titanium White was added to the highlight mix to paint the highest highlights. While all this is drying you can paint the hair eyes etc... After a couple of days of drying, tree to four, I repainted the dark shadows with a mixture of Purple Madder Alizarin + Madder Brown and a dab of Indigo (Rembrandt). This was again blended in using a brush with short hairs. The highest highlights were done in the same way, only this time using pure Titanium White. The figure was now put aside once again for a couple of days till this coat was also completely dry. When using these methods itís advised to work on more than one figure at the same time. Otherwise you will waste allot of time waiting for the figure to dry, who knows you might even pick up another hobby while waiting ! With this coat dry we can move on to the next step : the glazing. Glazing is about the same as placing filters on an armoured vehicle : you dilute your paint and place this diluted paint on specific areaís. I always mix 1/3 bleached linseed oil with 2/3 of turpentine. For the dark glazing I use Purple Madder Alizarin + Madder Brown + a dab of Blue Black (W&N); pure Flake White (W&N) is used for the light glazing. And thatís it what the flesh parts concern.
Copyright ©2019 by Gino Poppe. Images and/or videos also by copyright holder unless otherwise noted. The views and opinions expressed herein are solely the views and opinions of the authors and/or contributors to this Web site and do not necessarily represent the views and/or opinions of KitMaker Network, KitMaker Network, or Silver Star Enterrpises. All rights reserved. Originally published on: 2004-07-11 00:00:00. Unique Reads: 8449