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Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Large Scale Build Campaign 1/24 ~ 1/6
vdejarnette
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Maryland, United States
Member Since: February 25, 2013
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 03:06 AM UTC
Did you have to pay for the replacement sprue? I'm guessing yes. How long did it take them to send it? I ordered another copy of the kit just in case, it can always be returned while I try to get a another sprue from Tamiya as I would be willing to wait for it since I can build the rest of the kit without the body cover around. Thanks!
Dixon66
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New Hampshire, United States
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 02:34 PM UTC
I've gotten replacement sprues from Tamiya directly without issue.
Dragon164
#226
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 02:15 PM UTC
Van,
Check Ebay, you may be able to get just the sprue with the parts you need.
I am considering this for my 312T.

Cheers Rob.

Just checked did not see anything on Ebay.
woltersk
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Utah, United States
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 06:09 AM UTC
@Sal--have you considered making your own decals with something like the Testors Decal Set? If the markings are black lettering and the national insignia black stars then it should be relatively easy.

@Van--that is a shame. And thanks for the warning. I have a 1/25 Panther which has been a technique testbed for years and that I'd like to redo one of these days. Now I know what NOT to use to get the old paint off!
For future reference-Easy Off oven cleaner used to work for stripping paint without harming the plastic. I'm not sure if that is still true.

Keith
vdejarnette
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Maryland, United States
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2013 - 01:47 AM UTC
Painted the racing green cowling and body parts, most of them went fine...



and the main body cover was looking great until the paint on the bottom corner stuck to the cardboard base I was painting on. It was bad enough that I was going to have to repaint, so I soaked it in a bath of klean strip green for ~15 minutes... turned out to be way way too long, ooops! The build is on hold until I get another copy of the kit since I don't think I will be able to get these two as replacement parts.

ltb073
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New York, United States
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 12:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Sal: I'm assuming it will mimic a National Guard truck?



Yeah Jeff if that's what they are anyone know where I can get some markings in 1/24 for this vehicle
imatanker
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Maine, United States
Member Since: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 - 10:10 AM UTC
Kenneth: Can't wait to see some pics of that puppy

Sal: I'm assuming it will mimic a National Guard truck?
ltb073
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New York, United States
Member Since: March 08, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 - 08:58 AM UTC
Well I have been checking in here and have finally stated my build
1/24 scale GMC pickup that will wear tri color camo that I see rolling around here in the north east coast
 photo P1080095_zpsf05372d0.jpg
The box says 2012 but one of the pars say 1978 so i would guess that the base kit dates back to the years when I was building these as a kid
I was a little disappointed that this was all 1 piece
 photo P1080106_zpsd46e1fec.jpg
The chrome spruce will be soaked in bleach then sprayed flat black
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
Member Since: June 10, 2005
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Posted: Monday, July 01, 2013 - 10:36 PM UTC
Hey Kenneth, Tank Carl has made a mold for the backside of the wheels for his build. Look him up and see if he can make one for you as he did for me!

AND, welcome to the Large Scale Campaign!



~ Jeff
shermaholic-king
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Louisiana, United States
Member Since: December 30, 2012
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Posted: Monday, July 01, 2013 - 09:34 PM UTC
I am in with a 1/6 Dragon Sherman. I am building the 75mm version. Disappointed in the hollow backs of the bogie wheels.
imatanker
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Maine, United States
Member Since: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Monday, July 01, 2013 - 08:46 PM UTC
Van, There you go buddy, that's looking very nice and an interesting engine stand also Jeff T.
vdejarnette
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Maryland, United States
Member Since: February 25, 2013
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Posted: Monday, July 01, 2013 - 05:46 AM UTC
The body and engine cowlings are both removeable in the finished model, thanks for the kind words.
asmodeuss
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Quebec, Canada
Member Since: November 19, 2011
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Posted: Monday, July 01, 2013 - 03:27 AM UTC
Jeff, awesome work on the suspension my man! Love the metal parts, SWEEET.
Keith, This knith is comming along superbly
Peter Great progres, keep this up!!
Van, I hope you won`t hide that engine, looks very good.

Phil.
vdejarnette
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Maryland, United States
Member Since: February 25, 2013
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Posted: Monday, July 01, 2013 - 03:18 AM UTC
Some progress on the Lotus 25 from Tamiya

Body parts are primed. Don't mind the bleedthrough on some of them, they are getting painted the same color as the base plastic anyway. I made sure the prime coat on the two most visible pieces of the body weren't though.



Also a whole lot of progress in fits and spurts. Engine, wheels, and drivers cockpit all coming along. Most of the natural metal and gloss aluminum pieces have been painted.




woltersk
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Utah, United States
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 03:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Keith:nice my friend, it def looks better with the wash. You could try dry brushing the silver over the top to bring out the shiny bits again....just a suggestion. But nice work.



@Pete--silver dry-brushed on is the plan and the final step in the 'metal work.' I'll see how I feel about the general look at the end.


Quoted Text

I'm thinking that the Future step is VERY important so that you can remove the wash from the places you don't want it, right?



@Jeff T.--yup, exactly. Future is an acrylic, so the oils won't eat through it, but they will dry just fine and adhere to it. And since oils are VERY slow drying you have plenty of time to remove the excess and reapply if necessary.

Keith
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 - 05:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Jeff S: Oh come on buddy any pics are better than none



Pete




Ah, just tryin' to save some film and not waste it on watching paint dry!



~ Jeff
noddy927
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Member Since: February 15, 2013
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Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 11:38 PM UTC
Thanks for the comments guys.

Jeff T: Yuuuup was thinking the same with the rope, it just doesn't fit. Have to take it off, I don't think it needs much else on it.....what do you guys think?
Jeff S: Oh come on buddy any pics are better than none



Pete
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 10:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text



JEFF - where is our Cheiftain?

Pete




Paints a dryin'. Didn't think that was exciting enough for pictures.

You've seen the lower hull too much now.

I'll be back on it soon. Nice work everyone!



~ Jeff
imatanker
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Maine, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 09:23 PM UTC
Peter: Man, your Jag is looking very nice. I like the re-do on the Shurtzen, and the figures are coming along very well too I never am good with them. As far as the pigments go, I think less is more in this case. It would be a shame to cover up all that great chipping and paint work.
I do have one concern though, and please don't take this the wrong way as this is only my opinion and I am only trying to help. The rope,to me anyway, looks a little large. It was the first thing I thought of when I saw the pics. Just my 2 cents

Keith:Boy,what a change from the bright chrome you started with, and for the better I must say The SBS was a big help to me too. I'm thinking that the Future step is VERY important so that you can remove the wash from the places you don't want it,right?
I'm also thinking that your Knight is very lucky,cause back in the day,I don't think they washed all that often..... eeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwww
Jeff T.
noddy927
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Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 03:49 PM UTC
Great work Keith, the Knight looks great buddy. A good tip on the sludge wash too for those who are not aware.


JEFF - where is our Cheiftain?

Pete
woltersk
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Utah, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 02:41 PM UTC
@Pete--looks great. Can't wait to see what you do with a base.

As promised--the knight got the wash treatment:


Quite a difference from the pre-wash/pre-airbrushed chrome version, eh?


It has been brought to my attention (and I won't name names--Treadgeek ) that not everyone knows what a 'sludge wash' is. I am by no means an expert at any technique, and a matter-of-fact my sludge wash is just a pin wash gone bad.

The steps:
1. Apply a coat of Future and let it dry a few days
2. Mix a batch of artist oils for whatever shade you're after
3. Thin it, not too thin and not to thick. There's a learning curve
4. Brush it on the subject ensuring it gets in all the cracks and crevasses
5. Let dry for a period. The longer it sets the less will come off/the darker it will look
6. Wipe it off with a soft cloth or paper towel. Use cotton swabs for tight places
7. Set aside to dry for a few days
8. Reapply as necessary



It works on armor and aircraft too:




Keith
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2013 - 06:00 AM UTC
Hey thanks for the reply!

Yeah, I knew that about the front glacis... pity really and I don't think I will attempt to change it either.

I settled for a Hunter Green. Let's see how we turn out.



~ Jeff
bigmal
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Member Since: February 21, 2011
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2013 - 01:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey Pete and Jeff!

Not much progress since it was Fathers Day and all but I did manage to build the dampers/shocks and the suspension covers!



Sorry I'm not as good at the camera as Jeff T is, but I manage. The next step will be assembling them on the hull so some painting will be next.

I wonder what color I should get? Any advice?



~ Jeff




Unless you are going to make some serious modifications to this kit the only colour that could be used is Deep Bronze Green, this is because the kit is a model of a prototype that never saw service.
The hull front of the kit shows the metal covers that were put over the hull front to disguise it`s true shape when the tank was first shown to the public in the late 60`s, and the engine decks are very different to the production version.

Malc.
noddy927
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Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, June 24, 2013 - 12:30 AM UTC
Whoa no pics Jeff lol.

Heres a few of my Jaggypanther. Oh by the way guys, decided to build a base ....... must be mad. I want to put it in the Dundee show in August, so went for a base.
Anyway heres the Jaggynettle and figs, although figs need faces painted (thats only base coat) and a little more work on the uniforms.







took the schurtzen off and redid it...better me thinks.






need to dirty the rope up a little more.


This is after a layer of pigments and oil stains.


most of the unifrom work was done with AB including the shading. but I think it needs a little dry brushing too.


Now not surre if I like it with lots of pigment...like this

or as it is...like this


thats it for now...some base work today.

Later guys
Pete
Nito74
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Lisboa, Portugal
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Posted: Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 10:49 AM UTC
yup Jeff, 1200 is a finer grain/texture

check this link here