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Scratchbuilders!: Armor/AFV
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Best product to do headlights/glass
drewgimpy
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Utah, United States
Member Since: January 24, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 09:30 AM UTC
I have tried a few products that are suppose to dry clear, but they seem to have a bit of a haze to them when they dry if there is any amount of thickness to them. I have heard of some apoxies that are suppose to work real well but don't know anything about them. My question is what do you use when you need something crystal clear for headlights or whatever. If you could be specific as to the brand and even where to find it I would be grateful.
YodaMan
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 09:41 AM UTC
I've heard that if you put a coat of Future over clear parts, they will not fog when superglue is applied. What about Testors clear parts cement? Never tried it.
I seem to have trouble smearing clear plastic parts, myself....

YodaMan
Trackjam
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 09:47 AM UTC
If you have a specific diameter in mind, Grief of Mexico makes headlight lenses as does MV products of the US. I have used either of these for many years. I use white woodworking glue to hold then in place. It will not discolour the lenses and holds strong enough. trackjam sells grief products. (Shameless plug, I know)
Spike9077
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 09:59 AM UTC
This is kinda like Yodaman said, but instead of going over with Future(which works only to remove some of the glue), glue the headlight or windshield into place actually using Future instead of glue. I've also heard of people using Fabri-Tac, but I'm not sure. It might be used for something else.

Mark
drewgimpy
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 12:34 PM UTC
I better clearify before this keeps going the wrong way. I am not looking to glue something down, rather to use a large quantity of something to build up what appears to be a head light. I have learned the technique of drilling out the lights, putting in tin foil and then building up something that dries clear to finish it off. The last part is where I am stuck. I have tried white glue, the testor stuff that you glue windshields on with, and Microscale Krystal Klear but none have worked without leaving a slightly yellow haze. The Microscale worked the best but not good enough. Maybe I am trying to make it to thick, but I was hoping someone knows of something that is super clear even when thick.

Thanks for the quick helpful replies above guys
Folgore
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 01:25 PM UTC
Maybe some of that clear resin ship modelers use to make water would work.
GeneralFailure
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 05:38 PM UTC

Andrew,
There's a few older posts on the subject in the "scratchbuilding" forum already.
Here's one :

PU versus Polyester resins
I tried several sorts of transparent resins. In the past, I tried several transparent polyester resins. Some are specially marketed to imitate water in dioramas: ponds and rivers.
Though some of these can be used to cast transparent, I was not really happy with them : they change color (sometimes a bit greenish) and often get hard very slowwwwwwwwwly.
Even after several days, the surface can still be a bit sticky.
Recently, I was advised to try a transparent Poly Urethane (PU) resin.
Though it cures slowly too, it works a lot faster thatn the polyester.

WIth all resins, it is important to note that large objects get hard (dry) faster than small objects. With slow-curing resins (most transparent), very small pieces need days/weeks to become really hard and surface-dry.

Transparent resins (all kinds) can be colored. Red and orange vehicle lights look nicer (more real) than painted ones, even if you paint them with "transparent ink". All it takes is add a (very very very small - no, even smaller !) drop of coloring agent to the resin when you mix it.

Finally, I refer to my own M35 truck (see "general's deuce" - link below) as an example of resin-cast headlights.

Jan
mj
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2002 - 03:56 AM UTC
Thanks to some advice I got from Kencelot, the last time I did headlights for an M3 Stuart I drilled a little plastic out, painted the inside silver (Kencelot suggested using tin-foil), and dripped enough Future into the cavity to bring everything flush to the surfice. When dried, it was crystal clear, and looked great.

Mike

GunTruck
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2002 - 04:10 AM UTC
Andrew - this is the stuff I keep on the workbench:

http://www.beadshop.com/5minuteepoxy.html

I feel 5-minute epoxy will give you what you're looking for in way of making lenses. It's two part - I mix it on on old business cards, and use a toothpick as a trowel to insert into a cavity. It sets rock-hard and crystal clear - with no yellowing. You can tint it with clear Tamiya acrylics - or make it opaque with Tamiya acrylics...

Gunnie

Red4
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2002 - 05:41 AM UTC
MV Lenses for headlights, landing lights, etc.... can find them in the railroad section of better stocked hobby shops, "Q"
drewgimpy
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2002 - 06:08 AM UTC
Thanks guys. I will look for some of the MV lights in the future. I went ahead and ordered the 5 minute apoxy the Gunnie suggested (hey, I like how his lights look). I am sure it will be a while before mine look as good as his, but I have to start somewhere.

P.S. You have the avatar all to your self now Gunnie
GunTruck
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2002 - 10:28 AM UTC
HEY!!!

That new avatar is cool!

Gunnie
drewgimpy
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Posted: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 08:46 AM UTC
I ordered the stuff on monday and they said it would be here in 7-10 business days until I got it. Well this moringing it got here early. My wife needed me to fix something so I whiped some up and it works great. Of course I had to test some for clearigty and drying time while I had some mixed and it works as good or better then Gunnie said. thanks for the tip!

On the Avatar, I love old blood and guts so I thought I would use him as my Avatar. Thanks to Jim for the help in getting it taken care of for me.
Removed by original poster on 08/20/19 - 08:31:05 (GMT).