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Science Fiction: Campaigns
Information and discussion of group builds and campaigns.
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Official Bandai 2 Campaign Thread
Klaus-Adler
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MODELGEEK
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Posted: Monday, July 06, 2020 - 04:02 AM UTC

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Looking great David. What scheme are you going with on this one?



Hi Dixon66,

well for ease i thought i would stick with the original colours that came in the box but after much thinking i have opted to go for the blue scheme that can be seen in the original colour scheme when these ships were originally designed... so wish me luck :-)



Cool, I have one more in the stash and was thinking of doing the McQuarrie scheme too.



hi mate,

yeah not sure if it will be 100% screen accurate or "cannon" but it will be blue and white. i have added some battle damage to the kit already

Dixon66
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Posted: Sunday, July 05, 2020 - 04:29 AM UTC

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Looking great David. What scheme are you going with on this one?



Hi Dixon66,

well for ease i thought i would stick with the original colours that came in the box but after much thinking i have opted to go for the blue scheme that can be seen in the original colour scheme when these ships were originally designed... so wish me luck :-)



Cool, I have one more in the stash and was thinking of doing the McQuarrie scheme too.
Klaus-Adler
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MODELGEEK
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Posted: Sunday, July 05, 2020 - 04:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking great David. What scheme are you going with on this one?



Hi Dixon66,

well for ease i thought i would stick with the original colours that came in the box but after much thinking i have opted to go for the blue scheme that can be seen in the original colour scheme when these ships were originally designed... so wish me luck :-)
TheDiggs
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Posted: Saturday, July 04, 2020 - 07:47 AM UTC
Well, its been a bit since I posted so here is one big update. I apparently didn't pre-wash the TIE Advanced as well as I did the TIE normal since the black paint came completely off of one and not he other during masking, all else being equal.



After getting all of that sorted and fixed.



Now we have completion.



Dixon66
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Posted: Sunday, June 28, 2020 - 11:52 PM UTC
Looking great David. What scheme are you going with on this one?
Klaus-Adler
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MODELGEEK
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Posted: Sunday, June 28, 2020 - 10:44 PM UTC
i'm still working on the seat and it is just about finished in the meantime here is a picture of the A-Wing cockpit that is just about finished. i have added a british one pound coin into the picture to give it some some idea of scale.

Klaus-Adler
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MODELGEEK
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Posted: Saturday, June 27, 2020 - 05:23 AM UTC
I've actually managed to start to do some work on my A-Wing and i have chipped off the support for the pilot figure and i must admit i am a bit disappointed in the details on the actual seat which don't actually exist when you compare it to the X-Wing seat.

TheDiggs
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Posted: Thursday, June 25, 2020 - 08:32 AM UTC
Greetings Everyone,
Just getting started with these little guys.

Klaus-Adler
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MODELGEEK
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Posted: Thursday, June 18, 2020 - 09:19 PM UTC
you're doing a great job with that wiring mate, keep going, you'll get there.
Braille
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Posted: Thursday, June 18, 2020 - 07:39 PM UTC
@BM2 – John,

For some unknown reason my computer wouldn’t allow me to open the link you posted? I tried again tonight and bam! Your project is coming along nicely; you’ve already gone further with your build than I have on mine. I don’t have a base for my robot yet. I like how you have managed a good discharge effect on the tubes using LEDs and cotton. NICE!!!

~ Eddy
BM2
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Posted: Sunday, June 14, 2020 - 06:47 AM UTC
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=3193821514004023&id=100001286181228

This is a slow going kit so far I have been able to get the LEDs wired and a lot of the assembly, and have a start on the dio base but it's got a long way to go. The cannons are wired into a flasher chip that allows for a strobing.
Braille
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Posted: Friday, June 12, 2020 - 05:04 PM UTC
I had a little time this week to work on the bench so here’s a small update.


Here I drilled holes for the wiring through two of the torso parts.


The two pieces fitted together.



I also drilled holes for the wiring through the front and back hip pieces.


All of the torso parts fitted together


The main wiring passing through the torso and exiting out the left hip area.

@MLD – Mike D and @Florre – Thomas,
Congratulations to the both of you on some fine build examples and workmanship. I do hope that I will be seeing you two again on a different campaign sometime in the near future. I like these campaigns as it gives me time to build and enjoy the work being put forth by everyone involved and it keeps me motivated to complete my build too. Mike D, your monster tank turned out very well especially with that weather worn look. And Thomas, I won’t be forgetting that well detailed interior, although you can’t see much of it now. I do like how your walker turned out, nice job on the base too! Thanks to the both of you for sharing your work and issues during your builds I enjoyed reading through them. Stay safe and build away.

@Dixon66 – David,
Thanks David it’s been fun so far, more on the way.

@PasiAhopelto – Pasi,
I like the color transition from gold to silver, nice. Don’t worry about your speed, just have fun and enjoy. I’m also a slow builder.

Next up is the left leg and final assembly before painting begins.
~ Eddy
Dixon66
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 10:32 AM UTC

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I've been lucky I guess. I don't push fit any of the Bandai joints and use Tamiya Extra Thin on all points. I prime w/ Mr Surfacer 1500 or airbrush with Model Master thinned with mineral spirits directly on the plastic. I seal with either Future or MM Gloss Lacquer, decal, seal again w gloss. Oil paint wash with Turpenoid thinner, dry brush, and then flatten with MM Flat Lacquer.

That's six Bandai SW kits so far.


Hans, The Mandolorian is everything the last three SW movies should have been, great casting, subtle humor, good drama and overall just plain entertaining with a compelling story arc. Some good surprises along the way too.



Mm, I guess proper sealing could do the trick... I don't have an airbrush, so I had to rely on spray cans. With these you cant reach all nooks and crannies of course. And that's where the washes go...

And now I'm REALLY looking forward to september! Fall will be Star Wars season for me My wife will be so happy



Get her to watch, my wife loved it and she is in no way a sci-fi or SW fan.
Florre
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 08:41 AM UTC

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I've been lucky I guess. I don't push fit any of the Bandai joints and use Tamiya Extra Thin on all points. I prime w/ Mr Surfacer 1500 or airbrush with Model Master thinned with mineral spirits directly on the plastic. I seal with either Future or MM Gloss Lacquer, decal, seal again w gloss. Oil paint wash with Turpenoid thinner, dry brush, and then flatten with MM Flat Lacquer.

That's six Bandai SW kits so far.


Hans, The Mandolorian is everything the last three SW movies should have been, great casting, subtle humor, good drama and overall just plain entertaining with a compelling story arc. Some good surprises along the way too.



Mm, I guess proper sealing could do the trick... I don't have an airbrush, so I had to rely on spray cans. With these you cant reach all nooks and crannies of course. And that's where the washes go...

And now I'm REALLY looking forward to september! Fall will be Star Wars season for me My wife will be so happy
Dixon66
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 06:51 AM UTC
I've been lucky I guess. I don't push fit any of the Bandai joints and use Tamiya Extra Thin on all points. I prime w/ Mr Surfacer 1500 or airbrush with Model Master thinned with mineral spirits directly on the plastic. I seal with either Future or MM Gloss Lacquer, decal, seal again w gloss. Oil paint wash with Turpenoid thinner, dry brush, and then flatten with MM Flat Lacquer.

That's six Bandai SW kits so far.


Hans, The Mandolorian is everything the last three SW movies should have been, great casting, subtle humor, good drama and overall just plain entertaining with a compelling story arc. Some good surprises along the way too.
Florre
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 05:15 AM UTC
@David I can strongly recommend the kit! I never heard of Mandolorian, checked it out, looks great! In september, Disney+ is coming to Belgium, can't wait to watch this.

@Mike Yeah, well, I'm a warned man now, whenever the next Bandai-item enters my modelling space I'll make sure anything white-spirit related is put in a box welded shut and sent to the moon But you're right, it'll definitely affect sales if they don't do anything about it - or at least warn the customers! Poor guy in the video, he's really very stoic about it

@pasi looks good, very clean paint job!
PasiAhopelto
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 03:53 AM UTC
Nice walker, Hans.

Meanwhile, I've completed head unit:



Have to speed up my pace a bit.
MLD
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 03:42 AM UTC

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Hi all!

My little chicken walker is done! The only thing I still want to do is darken the wooden frame a bit.
I gotta say, this has been one of the most fun projects I have ever done. SNIP Personally, this project teached me once again what modelling should be about : fun & imagination.

So : thanks for making this campaign possible --<




EXACTLY the right attitude to have right about now, Hans.
That kit looks great, and if I can remember NOT to use any enamel thinners and products when I build mine, I hope it will come out as nicely.
Bandai is going to HAVE to address this issue with the new plastic, because the reaction with the plastic and enamel thinner is going to be a purchasing factor for me going forward.

I'm REALLY glad my kit was old enough that it wasn't an issue.
The wing 'joints' on my Tie Striker BARELY survived the process.
There is a high end sci-fi guy,Jason Eaton who has been doing daily videos and has one of the new R2 kits FALL APART in his hands as he weathers it.. heartbreaking to watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVabvntSbT4
The horror starts (and the swearing) at about 3 min.. he's got a much better attitude about this than I would have.
Dixon66
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 03:11 AM UTC
Cool little vignette Hans. I like it a lot.

I've been wanting to pick up one of these and do it similar to the one in the Mandolorian episode Sanctuary.
Florre
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Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 12:56 AM UTC
Hi all!

My little chicken walker is done! The only thing I still want to do is darken the wooden frame a bit.

EDIT : forgot to mention, my inspiration for the little base came from this superb model of Andy Moore : https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978365-at-st-bandai-148/page/3/

I gotta say, this has been one of the most fun projects I have ever done. First of all it's a fantastic kit : fast, easy and very detailed. And second, it feels good to build Sci-Fi, because it frees me from this annoying voice in my head that goes : is this authentic, is this possible, did unit x actually ever use this particular colour scheme/equipment/tracks/whatever in summer '43, is the dust/mud realistic for the theatre of operations, etc. etc.. Personally, this project teached me once again what modelling should be about : fun & imagination.

So : thanks for making this campaign possible --<

Enough said, pictures!






























Florre
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Posted: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 - 07:25 AM UTC

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@Florre – Thomas,
I like the camouflage pattern that you’ve created and how it doesn’t extend to the lower section or legs of the AT-ST. You’re on the fun part of the build for me, the painting and weathering.




I feel exactly the same way, I try to build quick, and go slow and steady on painting and weathering because I enjoy it much more

Speaking of which : I'm almost done weathering this AT-ST. Because of the white spirit issues I was forced to switch to waterbased stuff. So I discovered pastels, aquarelle pencils, and I even found out that MiG-pigments work with water just as well - if not better! It never entered my mind to try water on pigments I gotta say that weathering with water-based techniques is a total revelation for me, I seem to get better results with less effort and tinkering around. Even filters work pretty well!

This said, here are some pictures. Next time will be the finished thing. Just have to do some details here and there, and soms dust and mud. And a base of course.

Thx for watching!








Klaus-Adler
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MODELGEEK
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Posted: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 - 02:35 AM UTC
Mike D that's some fantastic weathering you've done, sorry to hear you've had some issues with the decals, I had similar issues with decals on an Academy F18 kit last year so I feel your pain.

Eddy that's some amazing work you've done with the lighting kit that you've made and the droid is coming along nicely.
MLD
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Posted: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 - 01:23 AM UTC
Eddy, the lighting looks great!
Thanks for the encouragement, it's the kit that fought me tooth and nail.. 'modulation' lost when the gloss coat went on, decals reacted badly to the flatcoat.. but I'm calling it done and moving on. For a kit that got started during this whole thing, there's a metaphor in there somewhere..

Might even start another kit while working from home.

The teach school from home thing is pretty ineffective. Working from my hobby room is also a bit disheartening, but the kids are doing school themselves and my 'quiet inside voice'... isnt...
Dixon66
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Posted: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 - 12:18 AM UTC
Looking great Eddy, really like where this is going.
Braille
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Posted: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 - 05:05 PM UTC
Been away for a while but I’m back. Busy with other life things here in my part of the world. Took me some time to plan how the wiring and fiber optics would be arranged within this model. It’s a first for me but it won’t be a last, I’m liking this new found part of modeling. Ok, on with another photo intense posting, hope you guys find the lighting information of interest enough to try this on one of your builds?



Holes drilled and bracing removed on inner chest cavity support structure to allow for passing of wires.



Bracing removed from inside of front chest plate to allow access drilling for fiber optic lines to the two front panel lights.



Holes drilled to inside of rear chest plate to allow for passing of wires and enlarged the opening to the right rear electrical housing panel square opening to create clearance for placement of two Chip sized LEDs.


Holes drilled through electrical housing cover plate and bracing removed from the inside for placement of two Chip sized LEDs.


The two blue light Chip sized LEDs being tested before installation with the single 3 Volt 2032 coin battery that will be used to power up all of the LEDs.


Here the LED Chips are installed and are spaced apart from each other using two .010” (.025mm) thick clear styrene sheet pieces cut to match the sides of the Chips. The clear styrene shims were attached to the LEDs using Pledge clear floor wax and allowed to dry overnight then the shimmed LEDs were secured to the inside of the electrical housing cover plate using super glue and tested after installation.


1) Scratch made a two compartment illuminator box from .020” (0.5mm) thick black styrene sheet to house one blue and one green Nano sized LEDs.
2) Secured the wiring to the back of the box using super glue.
3) Before attaching the two .030” (.75mm) diameter End Glow fiber lines to the cover I expanded and heat polished the lines by holding the ends near a flame using a lighter. This will allow the lines to gather more light at the source. The lines were attached to the cover plate using quick setting (5 – 10 second) super glue. Longer setting super glues will eat away at the fiber. Two small holes were drilled through the illuminator box to vent any heat buildup. The illuminator cover plate and attached fiber optic lines were then affixed to the illuminator box using liquid cement.


The head, inner cavity support chest structure and both front and rear chest plates and electrical housing cover are now in final assembly. The wiring is run through the drilled openings and held together using thin dental floss. All of the positive red and negative green and black wires have been twisted together and soldered.


The exposed soldered wires are now sealed using liquid electrical tape. I chose not to use shrink sleeving in this case as the wiring is too close to the plastic parts and using a heat gun could easily melt and distort the parts.


The fiber optic lines were fixed to the inner front chest plate using quick setting super glue.



Here the LEDs are being tested after final assembly. I deviated away from using the white and blue lamps on the front light panel and instead used a green and blue lamp as this droid is representative of a later production model. The two rear blue lamps are just guess work. A back story will follow the end of the build. More coming!

@Florre – Thomas,
I like the camouflage pattern that you’ve created and how it doesn’t extend to the lower section or legs of the AT-ST. You’re on the fun part of the build for me, the painting and weathering.

@TacFireGuru – Mike,
That’s a long part name for a little battle guy but it looks well armored and armed.

@MLD – Mike D,
The semi-gloss coating together with the flat pigments really gives off a realistic metal painted finish to this beast, I like it. Hummm . . . I like the way you’ve handled the worn and chipped out areas on the fenders, looks realistic and worn. Listen, don’t put too much thought about what’s going on with this crazy insane forced lock-down it’s just temporary, all life is! Enjoy the moment and build away.

~ Eddy
P.S. Tried to post this last weekend put my photos weren’t showing due to an upgrade at the photo hosting site. I had to delete my post but all seems to be working now.