I wouldn’t clean it with alcohol after the Kristal Clear, it might loosen it up. I’d clean, use the kristal clear, then future. Be very very sparing with the CA.
VR, Russ

Future is more or less an acrylic laquer.
Letting it cure for a few days will certainly not do any harm.

The stickyness of masks, masking tape, adhesive tape et.c can be reduced by sticking them to your skin first.
The sticky bits of Post-It notes can also be used as masking material.

Thanks!

So I've put the canopy together using crystal clear. The fit is good! I will let it fully cure overnight, then clean it inside and out with alcohol, then dip it in future before putting a little CA glue on each of the corner joints. I gather from reading about dipping canopies in future that it's good to let it cure for a couple of days?

Phil,
Good question. I prefer to use Micro Scale Kristal Klear to seal up canopies when I want them closed. It comes out white, but dries clear, and durable. It self levels as well. You can also use Pledge with Future to seal up a canopy.

One other method I use for an absolutely permanent bond is to attach the canopy parts with thin Cyanoacrylate (super glue). However, to do this, you’ll need to coat the canopy with Pedge/Future to prevent fogging. I just soak the clear parts for a few minutes in Future, wick off the excess on the corner of a paper towel, and set the clear parts aside for 24 hours, preferably under a cover. Then, using a fine applicator, I just run a light bead of CA along the assembled seam, letting it draw through capillary action. It’s not necessary to trace the entire part, just a dab in a corner or two will do. But the CA method requires a steady hand and some skill using CA, otherwise you could have a real mess.

I can’t answer your question regarding the Eduard masks, but it seem likely they are made in two sizes to accommodate the separation facilitating the canopy clear parts releasing from the frame, for ejection purposes as you surmise. In USAF aircraft, that’s usually a yellow looking rim around the clear parts. I’d say it’s safe to paint that with an enamel paint first. Not sure about an acrylic paint, just be sure to wash any mold release off the canopy before painting.
Hope this helps.
VR, Russ

I'm working on the Hasegawa 1/72 F-4 Phantom for the Phantom campaign. It's closed up but the canopy comes in 4 pieces, which I'll have to mask to paint.

First question: what kind of glue should I use to stick all the pieces together? I usually use white glue but I usually am sticking a couple of pieces onto an airframe with masking attached and just have to gently remove them. I'm not sure white glue is going to hold the canopy pieces if I'm handling them.

Second question (especially for anyone who may have used the Eduard mask set for it): it looks like there are two masks, one ever so slightly smaller than the other. I *think* it wants me to paint it once with a rubber color for the seals around the glass, and then again with the second set of masks applied for the camo. Sounds fiddly. I'm concerned about pulling the paint off the canopy with the second set of masks. I guess I just prep it like normal with primer and then paint, letting each stage cure substantially?

And advice welcome.